GUIDE TO DALHOUSIE, CHAMBA AND THE INNER MOUNTAINS BETWEEN SHIMLA AND KASHMIR BY J. HUTCHISON, L.R,.C.P. & S.E. CHAMBA
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| Dhauladhar Range |
This Guide was first published as a Guide to Dalhousie only by the late Col. J. H. Hutchinson in 1869-70. A second edition appeared in 1883 d Mr. R. L. Harris, C. S. The third edition in 1910 edited by Mr. H. A. Rose, C. S., contained much additional the information which has been greatly supplemented in the present addition. The main aim has been to give only such information as is likely to be of permanent value and all rules about supplies, transport, shooting, etc., are therefore omitted as they change almost every year. It is practically a new Guide.
THE ROUTE TO DALHOUSIE
The main road to Dalhousie runs from
Pathankot via Dhar and Dunera in the outer hills. After leaving
Pathankot it follows for 6 miles the Kangra Valley road and then turning sharply to the left enters the low hills. Ascending by an easy
gradient it surmounts the first ridge of the Shivalik and descends into
the dun beyond, through which it winds for some miles. At the 18th mile
Dhar is passed, and here another ridge of the Shivalik area is crossed.
Then the road runs for 10 miles in a very tortuous course, now
topping a ridge and anon dipping down into a hallow, till at the 28th
mile Dunera is reached. Here, there is a comfortable and commodious Dak
Bungalow.
Immediately on leaving Dunera the
the road ascends gradually to gain the summit of the Hathi Dhar at
Khatori, where there is a rest-house belonging to the Military
Works Department. Descending for a short distance to cross n ravine
it again rises steadily till the shoulder of the Bakloh spur is reached,
when it runs almost on the level for 2 or 3 miles to Naini Khad.
At the 16th mile from Dalhousie,
a branch road ascends on the right to the military station of
Bakloh, and joins the old road to Dalhousie which enters at the
Post. Office. There is a rest-house at Mamul near Bakloh.
Above Naini Khad the main road
ascends to Dandiara, where there is another road bungalow of the Military
Works, and then, skirting the terminal spurs of the Dhaula Dhar reaches Banikhet. Here another branch leaves on the left to join
the Sindhara road from Pathankot to Chamba. The road then describes a
curve round the side of the Ealun spur, and enters Dalhousie at the
Dalhousie Club.
The scenery of the Shiwalik through
which the road runs, in the greater part of its course, is very different
in many respects from that of the inner mountains, and has its own
peculiar beauty and charm. It would be difficult, indeed, to imagine
anything more lovely than some of the prospects in this region on a clear the day when the hills and valleys lie basking in the sunshine.
The wild luxuriance of the
vegetation is a striking feature in the landscape, and to the traveler
from the plains is all the more pleasing in contrast with what has been
left behind. The outer ridges are covered with a tangled maze of
barberry, cactus, and other plants and trees of semi-tropical growth,
intertwined with the wild rose, clematis, and jessamine. In the
valleys, the eye is gladdened with the sight of romantic glades and hollows, in which are situated the wattle huts and isolated homesteads of
the peasantry. At 4,000 feet the semi-tropical vegetation is left behind,
aid is succeeded by forms of a more Alpine character, with copses of
pinus longifolia stunted oak.
Looking back from this point the most prominent feature of the Shiwalik region is seen to be the
parallelism of the ridges and valleys of which it is composed. These
run from south-east to north-west and gain in altitude as they recede
from the plains. In speaking of the same area in Kangra, Mr. Vigne-who
was one of the first European travelers to visit this hills-not inaptly
compares the ridges and valleys to waves of a troubled sea,
suddenly arrested and turned to stone.
Dalhousie, it's situated at the
western end of the Dhaula Dhar, where its terminal spurs begin to drop to
the Ravi. The average altitude is about 6,500 feet ; at the Post
Office it is 6,700 feet, while the top of Bakrota Hill is about 8,000
feet. The principal hills are Bakrota, Terah and Potrain, of which
Bakrota is most salubrious. There are also a few houses on Kathlag Hill,
but the situation is too low to be bracing.
Balun spur to the north of
Terah is entirely occupied by the Barracks and the Garrison Hospital.
Between Terah and Balun is a small spur, called Sonanatala on
which are the Tennis Courts and the Dalhousie Club, and to the
west of it, on Mankot and Tikka spurs are numerous huts for the troops as
an extension of Balun.
At Banikhet is located
the Military Dairy for the supply of butter and milk to the station, with
a branch on Balun during the season. The Post Office and Church are in
the gap between Bakrota and Terah hills and the Kachiri is at the
northwestern extremity of Potrain Hill.
Hotels The
Bull's Head was the first hotel to be opened in
Dalhousie. It is now used chiefly as a Mess for the Officers of the Balun
Depot. In the same compound is the Grand View Hotel, recently erected,
and the Springfield Hotel is situated at the south-western corner of
Terah Hill.
The Malls Each of the three
principal hills have a level circular road running around it of these
the Upper Bakrota Mall is the finest and longest, being fully three
miles round, and from it extensive views are obtained of the low hills
and plains to the south, and the snowy ranges to the north. The
Terah Mall runs from the Post Office to the Assembly Rooms and the
Springfield Hotel, then round the south side of the hill to the Post
Office again. It is about one and a half miles in circuit. The Potrain
Mall starts from the Springfield Hotel, and encircles the hill it is
about one mile around.
The best way to realize the situation of Dalhousie is to take one's stand on Dayan Kund at 9,000
feet, where a magnificent panorama Iies spread out before one.
Facing south-west the Kala Top spur
is on the right with the Dalhousie hills-Bakrota, Terah, Potrain and
Kathlag stretching away towards the Ravi.
Bakloh is seen at
a greater distance on the left, and beyond are the ridges
and valleys of the Siwaliks, running parallel to one another
and losing indistinctness as they recede towards the plains.
Far in the distance is the outermost ridge, with the cut
near its extremity to allow the Chakki to flow into the Beas. Near this
is Pathankot, with Shahpur a little farther to the northwest, on the
Ravi. Within the Siwalik area two wide river beds are seen
running parallel, the one to the east being the Chakki and
that to the west, the Ravi. East of the Chakki is the Shiwalik hills
round about Nurpur and across the Ravi to the west, the same
ridges and valleys stretch away in the direction of Jammu.
On a clear day, three at least of the
great Punjab rivers are. visible, glittering in the sunshine and
losing themselves in the plains beyond, which seem to melt away into
infinite space. These are the Sutlej, the Beas, and the Ravi.
Even the Chenab may sometimes be seen.
Turning to the north the gaze rests
on an amphitheater of lofty ranges, with a foreground of mountain
and valley, forest, gorge, and stream. Closing in the horizon
to the west and north-west are the rounded summits of the
Kund Kaplas and Dagani Dhar, which in summer are
entirely free of snow. Beyond them are Bhadrawah and Balesa
in Jammu.
To the north and north-east the
snowy pinnacles of the mid-Himalaya or Pangri Range stretch out in
majestic array, many of them rising to an altitude of 18,000
and 19,000 feet. Beyond them are Pangi and Lahul. Towering up
from behind them are two lofty peaks, covered with snow, one
slightly rounded and the other pointed and precipitous, which among
Europeans are known as the Bride and the Bridegroom. These are in
the Gurdhar range in Pangi, and are about 21,000 feet in height,
being the highest peaks in Chamba State.
Far to the south-east the eye can
trace the line of the Dhaula Dhar, till the range is lost in a
mighty maze of snowy mountains, chief among which is the Kailash,
at whose base rests the sacred lake of Manimahesh. Within
this wide expanse it is easy to detect the tortuous course of the Ravi
gorge, though not more than a glimpse of the river can anywhere be seen.
The Siyul, its largest tributary is also hidden from view but a considerable
part of the open valley is clearly visible as well as the general trend
of its many converging tributaries from the snowy range. Below, in the
near foreground, is the lovely forest glade of Khajjiar, and just beyond
it the deep hollow of the Ravi in which Chamba is situated. Lastly, over
the valleys and mountain slopes are sprinkled the hamlets of the
peasantry, each in its own area of cultivation, lending an
additional charm to the landscape and presenting a fascinating
picture of rural beauty and repose.
History of the Sanitarium
The project of the formation of a
Sanitarium in the Chamba Hills originated with Lieutenant-Colonel
Napier, then Chief Engineer of the Punjab (afterward Lord Napier of
Magdala).
In 1851 selection was made of a spot
where the Dayankhund ridge breaks into spurs. Of these, the lowest spur-
Kathlag (lat. 32° 32° N., Long. 76° E.) was considered
the most suitable for a convalescent dep8t ; and Dr.
Clemenger of the 49th N. I. was directed to proceed to the
proposed site to record the necessary observations on-site, etc.
Dr. Clernenger's final report was submitted in October
1852 and the sanction of the Government of India for
sufficient land to be taken up was given in September 1853. A
committee was then appointed to decide the boundaries of the
proposed site and finally, the hills of Kathlag, Potreyn,
Terah, Bakrota, and Bhangora taken up a reduction being made
in the tribute due by His Highness the Raja of Chamba of Rs. 2,000 out of
the Rs. 12,000 annually paid by him.
This was sanctioned by the
Government of India in February 1854, and at the recommendation of Mr.
(afterward Sir Donald McLeod), the Sanitarium was called "
Dalhousie." In 1856 Captain Fagan was employed under the orders of
the Honourable East India Company, in marking outlines of supply and
communication for the proposed station.
The station was then marked off into
sites, roads traced out, and roles laid down for the preservation of the
trees, sanitation, etc., in the Dalhousie Pamphlet of 1859. The
sites were advertised as available under these rules. In 1860 Dalhousie
was transferred from the Kangra to the Gurdaspur District up to
that time little or nothing had been done towards forming the Sanitarium,
beyond making a road to it from the plains. In 1860-61 the civil
water-supply was in working order. At this time the Terah (since
re-named by the natives Moti Tibba) and Potrain Malls were
constructed. In 1861-63 the Bakrota Mall was in progress. In
February 1861 most of the sites marked off were put up for auction and
sold to the highest bidder. The station was, at this time, a purely civil
station.
In 1866 it was determined that the
barracks for the Convalescent Depot should be built on the Balun plateau,
below Terah, instead of at Kathlag fresh land was
therefore taken up from the Chamba State for this purpose and
at the same time the Bakloh Hill (14 miles from Dalhousie, towards
the plains) was taken as a cantonment for the 4th Gurkhas.
For these two portions of the Chamba
State a further deduction of Rs. 5,000 a year was made from the
tribute payable by the Chamba Raja. In 1868 troops were for
the first time, located at Balun. It was originally a depot under the
command of a Military Officer appointed for two years, but during recent
year a wing of a British Infantry Regiment from one of the stations
in the Lahore Command has been quartered there under its own officers. In
addition to this wing at Balun, troops from the Lahore Command are
quartered in barracks, recently erected, on Tikka spur and Mankot, so
that there are wings of three British Infantry Regiments quartered
round Dalhousie married families being accommodated in tents.
Balun, as a convalescent depot has
ceased to exist on 25th July 1867 Dalhousie was constituted a
municipality of the first class. The Kacheri, Police Station and
Civil Dispensary is situated on the south side of Kathlag. The Bazar
lies to the east of these below Potrain Mall.
The original plan was to make
the tennis court etc., at the level ground near the Post Office, but in
1881 they were made on a spur, below the Assembly Rooms which had
been built by Mr. Leghorn in 1871.
The racquet court and Assembly
Rooms are now the property of the Municipal Committee. The old
Reading Rooms were in the Assembly room but in 1890 the "
Chamba Club " was started with Winnieville and the Bull's Head Hotel
as its quarters, the Reading Rooms being reconstituted under the Club's
management , in Bexley Shrapnel Lodge with two adjacent
houses was subsequently taken instead for quarters reading
rooms, etc.
In 1897 Government sanctioned the lease
to the Chamba Club for 99 years of a piece of land, about one acre in
area on the Sonanatala spur, opposite the Bull's Head, for the
purpose of building a Club-house to contain the usual recreation rooms.
The Club (now called " Dalhousie Club ") is under the
management- of a governing body and is housed in one building,
which is its own property and contains a Billiard Room, Library,
Reading Room, Card Rooms, Bar, etc.
Sanitation and Water Supply
Dalhousie
and Bakloh lay claim to being two of the healthiest places in the
Punjab. The original system of sanitation in Dalhousie was devised
by Dr. Hendley, Civil Surgeon, in 1888 and has worked admirably.
The water for the station and for Balun all comes from tha Panchpul
stream, which springs from the north-side of Dayankund in the gorge
formed by the diversion of the great spur to form the hills of Khirki
Galli, Bakrota, Terah and Potrain.
This stream runs down a picturesque
ravine to the water-works of Panchpul, and thence in a steep gorge
crosses the Bakloh road above the Brewery. The upper stream is in Chamba
territory, and the lower part forms the boundary of Dalhousie. The Chamba
authorities, however, have agreed to stop all cultivation along its course
and are replanting the catchment area so that its absolute purity is
secure. Since the formation of the station several water-supply schemes
had been suggested but were not carried out.
In 1890
fresh proposals were laid before Government and were sanctioned. These
proposals resulted in pipes being laid down from the Panchpul stream
and carried over Bakrota, Terah Hill, and Potrain and thence into
the bazar. There are three storage reservoirs in the station itself and
one in the Bazar, while hydrants have " been set up at convenient
places along the route of pipes from which water is drawn for the
neighboring houses. Catchment area Under the orders of Government
this area is inspected once a year by a committee formed of The Assistant
commissioner, Dalhousie, The Station Staff Officer Dalhousie, The
Conservator of Forests, Chamba State and An official deputed by the
Chamba State. The report of the committee is forwarded to
Government and this ensure that planting operations are never
relaxed. The average annual rainfall in inches for a period of 20
years from 1883 to 1903 was 85.98.
General Descriptions
Chamba State
is situated in the Western Himalaya between north latitude 32° 11'
30" and 33° 13' 6" and east longitude 75° 49' 0"
and 77° 5' 30". The boundaries are as follows :-On the
north-west and west Jammu and Kashmir , on the north-east and east Ladakh,
Lahul and Bara Bangha1 , on the south-east and south the districts of Kangra
and Gurdaspur.
The superficial area of the State is
3,216 square miles, with a population at the census of 1911 of 135,989,
giving a density of 40.9 to the square mile. Chamba, the capital,
stands on a plateau on the right bank of the Ravi 19 miles from the
hill station of Dalhousie and 50 miles from Shahpur Kandi,
where the Ravi leaves the hills.
In shape the State is more or less
of a rough oblong the greatest length-from south-west to north-east
being about 70 miles and the greatest breadth-from south-east
to north-west-about 50 miles. Within this area are embraced a small a portion of the Beas Valley, a section of the Ravi Valley, and a similar
section of the Chandra Bhaga or Chenab 'valley.
These main valleys are separated
from one another by well-defined snowy ranges, running more or less
parallel, in a direction from south-east to the northwest. The first
range-the one nearest the plains-is called the Outer Himalaya or
DhaulaDhar, separating the basin of the Beas from that of the Ravi,
the second is the mid- Himalaya or Pangi Range-the Pir Panjal of
geologists between the basin of the Ravi and that of the Chandra Bhaga
or Chenab and the third is the Western Himalaya .the direct
continuation of the main Himalayan axis between the Chenab and the
Indus.
These ranges are all in
continuity with the main Himalayan ranges from the east and, except the
DhulaDhar which ends at the Ravi, are continued westward into Kashmir
territory.
Passes
The passes in the Dhaula Dhar in
Chamba State range from 8,000 feet to nearly 16,000 feet those of
the Pangi range from 14,328 to 17,000 feet and those of the Western
Himalaya are all over 17,000 feet. The portion of the Beas Valley
included in the State is situated to the south of the Dhaula Dhar, and is
called Bhattiyat. It adjoins the districts of Kangra and Gurdaspur,
from which it is divided by a low range named Hathi Dhar, and the State
boundary follows the crest of this range, from near Shahpur in Kangra to
the river Ravi, which separates Chamba from Jammu.
To the south-east of Bhattiyat
the Dhaula Dhar forms the boundary for 36 miles between Chamba and
Kangra. The Ravi or Chamba Valley, lies between the Dhaula Dhar and the
Pangi Range. It is divided into three sections by the natural features of
the country, and these correspond to three of the wazarats or
sub-divisions of the State. The south-eastern section called Bharmour includes the upper portion of the Ravi Valley, and also the valleys of
the Budhal and the Tundahen two large tributaries if the
Ravi.
This was the original nucleus of the
State, of which Bharmour was the ancient capital and being the home
of the Gaddis, it is often called Gaddaran. The central portion of
the Ravi Valley extends from the Chirchind Nala near Chhatrari to the
junction of the Ravi and the Siyul. It is called the Chamba wazarats and
in it the capital is situated.
The north-western portion of the
valley, called Churah, embraces the entire basin of the Siyul, the largest tributary of the Ravi and to the north-west is separated
from Bhadrawah and Balesa in Jammu by a range named Dagani
Dhar.
The Chandra Bhaga or Chenab Valley
in the State is called Pangi and Chamba Lahul and lies to the
north of the Pangi Range. it is separated from Zanskar in WesternTibet
by the Western Himalaya.
Rivers
The Beas does not flow through any
part of the State, but two of its tributaries the Chakki and the
Dairh rises on the southern slopes of the DhaulaDhar and flows through the
eastern portion of Bhattiyat.
he Ravi is the principal river of
Chamba. It rises in Bara Bhanghal, an outlying district of Kangra, and
flows in a north-westerly direction immediately to the north
of the Dhaula Dhar. At Ulansa it is joined by the Budhal and the
Tundahen and lower down by the Chirchind Nala.
After passing Basu and Mahla it
approaches Chamba, which is situated on a plateau on the right bank at a
considerable elevation above the level of the river. Here it is joined
on the right bank by the Saho or Sa1 and the town stands in the
fork near the junction of the two rivers About 10 miles lower down the
Siyul its largest tributary brings down the whole of the waters of the
Churah wazarat.
The Ravi then bends to the
west and southwest forming for some distance the boundary between
Chamba and Jammu territories and finally leave the State at Keri
and flows through the low hills past Basohli to Shahpur Kandi where
it debouches on the plains.
The Chandra
Bhaga or Chenab rises on the summit of the Bara Lacha Pass in British
Lahul by two heads the Chandra and the Bhaga. These unite at Tandi, and
the main river enters Chamba territory at Tirot where it is joined
by the Tirot Nala forming the boundary After passing
Triloknath and Margraon through a fairly open valley it enters the narrow
gorges of Chamba-Lahul, and Pangi and flows between precipitous cliffs
where the road is for the most part dangerous.
Below Shor, the valley is a
little more open though there are still spots where great care is necessary
and near Phindru the river passes through a rocky gorge where the road is
for some distance formed of beams and planks resting on iron bars fixed
horizontally in the face of the precipice.
The principal tributaries are the
Miyar Nala and the Saichu Nala from the Western Himalaya the former
joining at Udaipur in Lahul, and the latter at Sach in Pangi. Lower
down is the Hunan or Hundan Nala at Kilar and the Sural Nala at Darwas .
while the Sansari Nala forms the boundary between Pangi and Padar in
Jammu. In Padar the Chandra Bhaga flows through deep gorges for 24
miles, till it reaches the plain of Padar from which the district receives its name.
This plain is four miles long and
one mile wide and the river flows along the northern margin.
Here it is joined by the Bhutna Nala from the Western Himalaya. At Jhar
it again enters the narrow gorges through which it flows all the way to
Kishtwar. It then bends southward in a deep gorge to the west of the
Kishtwar plain, and is here joined by the Maru-Wardwan from the
Western Himalaya. The valley below Kishtwar is fairly open and at
Tantari river makes another bend to the west and flowing past Doda.,
Ramban and Rihasi finally leave the hills at Aknur.
History
The Chamba State is one of the
oldest native principalities in Nothern India, having been founded in the
middle of the 6th century A. D. In early times it probably formed a
part of the Kingdom of Kashmir to which it seems to have been
subject more or less for many centuries.
The original capital was at
Brahmapura, now called Bharmour, in the Upper Ravi Valley. Originally of a small extent, the State yet seems to have been of considerable importance,
as is shown by the ancient temples still existing in Bharmour. The
State possesses a unique collection of ancient records and archaeological
remains from which its history has been compiled. These records consist chiefly
of historical documents copper-plate title-deeds, and inscriptions on
stone, brass, wood, silver and gold.
Many of the objects on which
these inscriptions occur, or photographs of them may be seen in the
Bhuri Singh Museum at Chamba. The bansauli or geological roll of the
Chamba Rajas contains a great amount of historical material of much
interest, and its general accuracy is attested by strong
corroborative evidence.
The oldest inscriptions in the State
arc at Bharmour and date from the reign of Raja Meru Varma (A.
D. 680-700) whose name they bear, as also the names of several of
his ancestors. Meru Varma was the eighth in descent from Maru, the
founder of the State.
In the beginning of the tenth
century Sahila Varma, the 20th in descent from the founder, conquered the
Lower Ravi Valley from the petty chiefs called Ranas and Thakurs,
who then held it, and moved his capital from Bharmour to
Chamba.
The original form of the name was
Champa. Several of the temples in Chamba are ascribed to this Raja,
especially those of Lakshmi Narayan, Chandar Gupt and Champavati, the
last having been built in honor of his daughter who is worshipped &
a goddess.
It is the
family temple of the Chamba chiefs. The oldest copper-plate deed
bears the name of Sahila Varms's son and successor, Yugakar Varma. Till
the early part of the 12th century Chamba seems to have been subject to
Kashmir and several references to it occur in the Raja
Tarangini but in times of confusion, it may have been quite independent.
About the middle of the 12th century Chamba like other hill states seems
to have taken advantage of the disorder caused by the Muhammadan
invasions to assert its independence, which it successfully maintained
till the time of Akbar the Great .
About A. D. 1560-1580 it
became subject to the Mughals. There are a number of letters in the State
archives, the oldest of which dates from the reign of Shahjahan and also
valuable presents. In A. D. 1752 Chamba passed under the supremacy
of Ahmad Shah Durani along with the rest of the Punjab and about A. D.
1770 came more or less under the control of the Sikhs.
In A. D. 1808-09 it was subjected by
Maharaja Ranjit Singh and was tributary to Lahore till 1846, when
the Punjab Hills were ceded to the British Government after the first
Sikh War In 1863, at the request of Raja Sri Singh, a British Political Officer
was appointed to assist in the administration and by the
introduction of various reforms inaugurated an era of prosperity which
has made the State one of the most progressive in the Province.
It is politically under the
control of the Supreme Government. The State was formerly much larger
than it is now. In Kangra the whole of the southern fringe of the
Dhaula Dhar as far as Bir Bangahal, including the small districts of Rihlu and Palam, was State territory for centuries. In the Chenab
Valley Padar and Bhadrawah now in Jammu and the main valley in British
Lahul as far up as the junction of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers, were included
in the State.
Archaeology
The ancient remains of Chamba were first examined by Sir
Alexander Cunningham in 1839, but his visit was too short to admit of full
justice being done to the subject. Only of recent year has the whole wealth of
antiquarian, especially epigraphical material, been brought to light,
chiefly, & rough the researches of Dr. Vogel of the Archsaeological Survey of India. These remains consist
chiefly of ancient temples, copper-plate title-deeds, and inscriptions on stone,
brass, copper, wood, silver and gold.
Temples
The temples in the State are of two kinds, named
hill temples, and shikhara or plains temples. The hill temples are associated
with the Nag and Devi cults, and other cults of a similar character prevailing
throughout the hills, some of them from ancient and probably aboriginal times.
These temples have been erected on much the same design from remote antiquity.
Their construction is extremely simple. They consist of a small cella or
sanctuary, in which the image is placed, usually raised on a square plinth and
built of layers of rubble masonry, alternating with beams of cedarwood.
This
is surmounted by a sloping roof of wooden shingles or slates, supported by
wooden posts, which form a verandah or procession- path around the shrine. The
roofs of these temples are frequently renewed, but the cella may remain
unchanged from age to age. Though simple in their construction some of these
temples are of great interest owing to the elaborate decoration of their
facades, ceilings, and pillars. Some of them are known to date from A. D. 700,
and many may be much older. The three most prominent temples of this class in
the State are Lakshana Devi at Bharmour, Shakti Devi at Chhatrari, and Markula
Devi at Markula or Udaipnr in Chainba-Lahul .
The shikhara or spired
temples in the State are not numerous, and the design is similar to
that of temples in Rajputana and other places in the plains. The earliest
temples of this class in the State were erected only in the tenth century,
and most of them much later. The oldest temples of this kind are those of
Lakshmi Narayan and Chandargupt standing near the north-west corner of the
palace at Chamba which are ascribed to Raja Sahila Varma (A. D. 920-10),
the founder of the present capital. Next in age are the temple of Narsingh and Mani
Mahesa at Brahmaur, the ancient capital, one of which (Narsingh) was built by
Yugakar Varma son and successor of Sahila Varma.
The original temple of ManiMahesa was erected by Raja Meru Varma (A. D. 700). But it is very doubtful if
the present building goes back to so remote a time. Other temples of this
class are those of Gauri Shankar ascribed to Yugakar Varma, and Hari Rai
(probably erected by Salavahana Varma (A. D. 1040-1060) also Bansi Gopal and
Bhagavati of later date. The Triloknath temple in Lahul is also of the
shikhara design, but in front of it is a hill temple forming a porch, in which
the idol may originally have stood.
For a full account of the temples and other remains in the
State reference may be made to the Stake Gazetteer or to the Antiquities of
Chamba, Volume I by Dr. Vogel, Archaeological Survey.
Copper-plate title-deeds
In ancient times, and down almost
to the present day, it was the custom to engrave on copper plates all deeds of
gift conveying grants of land to Brahmans or temples and in few states were
the chiefs more generous in this respect than in that of Chamba. There are
more than 160 of these documents in existence in the State, and many more must
have been lost. Most of those extant are in the possession of the owners of the
lands to which they constitute the title, but a number have been surrendered to
the State and are retained in the Bhuri Singh Museum, where they are open to
inspection.
They are all engraved in the Sanskrit language and the script is
Sharada or Tankari, the ancient script of the hills. The oldest copper- plate
extant was granted by Raja Yugakar Varma (A. D. 940- 960) and there is also a
plate of his son, Vidughda Varma. The other plates of the pre-Muhammadan the period was granted by Soma Varma and Asata Varma, sons of Salavbahana Varma, referred to in the Raja Tarangini as having been deposed by Ananta Deva of Kashmir (A. D. 1060). They
reigned in the latter half of the eleventh century.
Speaking of the
copper-plates Dr. Vogel says " The existence of a series of documents of
this kind issued by a line of rulers of one State during a period of ten
centuries is certainly unique in the Punjab and perhaps in the whole of India.
It is all the more remarkable as in the surrounding hill districts, only
very few specimens of such documents have come to light, and these of a
comparatively recent date. Chamba is at present the only place in the Punjab
where copper-plates of the pre-Muhammadan period exist."
Inscriptions
These are very numerous in the State. The
object of the inscription usually was to commemorate some pious gift, or to
record the erection of an idol, a temple or a cistern. Such inscriptions are
found all over the State to the utmost limits of Pangi and Lahul. The oldest
is in the Brahmi and Kharoshti characters dating from several centuries before
the Christian era. They are found in Kangra but within the area formerly
included in the Chamba State. In the Ravi Valley, the oldest inscriptions are in
Gupta characters of the 6th century A. D. and those of a later date are in
Sharada, the character still in use in Kashmir while the more recent ones are
in Tankari and Nagari and one or two in Tibetan.
Excluding those of the last
two and a half centuries and including copper-plates, there are 130 in all. The
oldest of importance are engraved on the pedestals of the brass images of
Lakshana Devi, Ganesh, Nandi at Brahmaur and of Shakti Devi at Chhatrari and date from about A. D. 700. They all contain the name of Raja Meru Varma by whose order they were engraved and also the names of his father and
great grandfather as well as of the workman, Gugga.
Most of the inscriptions on stone are found on huge slabs
covered with quaint and grotesque figures which the traveler will often notice
at springs either in situ or lying disused and broken.
These slabs originally formed part of
elaborately carved water fountains erected in the olden time, chiefly by the
Ranas and Thakurs, who ruled the country before the advent of the Rajas and
who still exercised great authority even after becoming subject to the Chamba
rulers.
They were, in fact, the barons of the hills and many of their families
still exist in the State (vide State Gazetteer). These water fountains called
panihar and nahun were erected in memory of their deceased ancestors and for
their spiritual bliss in the next world. Such cisterns are common all through
the State, but the largest of them are found in Pangi and Padar. They are
numerous in the Chenab Valley from Sisu in British Lahul down to Kashtwar, but
only a few of then bear inscriptions.
One of the finest of the carved and
inscribed stones is at the village of Salhi in Pangi formerly the abode of a
Rana, who ruled the greater part of the Saichu Nala and whose descendants still
reside in their old home.
Monolith slabs
The traveler will often see near
villages especially in Pangi, long monolith slabs set up in the ground showing
rude carvings and often with a circular stone fixed on the top. These too are
memorials of the dead-called dhaj like the tombstones in our own cemeteries and are set up with great ceremony and much feasting of the relatives and
friends of the deceased. This custom has come down from aboriginal times (vide
State Gazetteer).
Geology
The following is a brief outline of the geology of the
State On the approach from the plains the first rocks met with are the
tertiary series of the Siwalik area composed of sandstone and conglomerate in
contact along their northern margin with the old Himalayan rocks. The line of
junction is a reversed fault, the old rocks appearing above the tertiary beds. The rocks along the line of contact are altered
lavas, but towards the east, the trap dies out and the Tertiary conglomerates
are in contact with the CarboTriassic series, consisting of limestone and
slates. North of these a narrow band of gneissose-granite appears, called the
Outer Band to distinguish it from the granite of the Inner Band or DhaulaDhar.
The rocks between these granite outcrops are of Silurian age and consist
of mica schist fine grained arenaceous rocks and slates, some of which near Dalhousie form good roofing slates.
The main range of the Dhaula Dhar is composed of gneissose
granite from end to end. Orographically it terminates at the Ravi but
geologically it is continued across that river to Kund Kapla in Jammu by a
granitic band running through Kala-top and Chil. In Dalhousie the granite ends
on the western slope of Terah Hill where it is in contact with the Silurian
slates. It is an igneous rock and has been intruded through the schists and
slates of the Silurian series, which lie in contact with it along both margins and in its passage has torn off and carried along with it large
splintery fragments of these rocks.
Half-way between Khajiar and Chamba the northern margin
of the granite is in contact with Silurian rocks, consisting of micaceous
and quartzose schists and slates, some of them near Chamba forming good
roofing slates. On the Pangi road near Masrund Carbo-Triassic rocks are
again met with composed of Blaini conglomerate in two bands separated by trap
and limestone.
The limestone is well seen near the Kalhel rest-house. North of
Kalhel the second band of conglomerate appears and continues to a point
opposite the great bend of the Siyul river. The rock has a hard matrix and is
full of quartz pebbles of all shapes and varying sizes. To the north-west the
Carbo-Triassic series is well seen in the Upper Siyul Valley as far as the
Padari Pass to the south-east the southern band of conglomerate with the trap and limestone are seen in the Saho
Valley and Upper Ravi Valley.
The conglomerate and limestone are well marked on
the ascent from the Gurola bridge to Khani near Brahmaur but the trap has
thinned out. The strike then runs to the south of Brahmaur and bends round
towards the Chobia Pass to join the Blaini conglomerate of Pangi and Lahul. The
northern band bend round towards the Marhu (Charar) Pass and also joins the
Blaini conglomerate of Pangi.
The general dip of the strata from the Siwalik
area to the inner Carbo-Triassic series is north-east but a synclinal fold
now changes it to the south-west and the Silurian rocks which now come in,
continue with a south-west dip to the top of the Sach Pass. Close to the top of
the pass the conglomerate again appears and the dip suddenly rises to
perpendicular and then underlies to the north-east.
The anticlinal coincides
with the very summit of the pass. The rocks are conglomeratic as far as
Donei, and along their northern margin two narrow bands of crystalline
limestone appear and are followed by siliceous schists, quartz schists and
mica schists which continue till the gneissose-granite are reached under the
village of Pirgao in Pangi.
Following the strata up the Pangi Valley from Kilar
the granite is succeeded by Silurian schists, with a southwest dip to the
Shilal stream where it becomes almost perpendicular. Very distinct glacial
markings are seen on a shelving rock near the Shilal Nala, which is crossed by
the roadway, proving that at no remote period the whole of the Chandra Bhaga
Valley must have been filled with confluent glaciers, that flowed down into the
Pangi Valley to a point lower than 7,500 feet.
To the south of Shor (Soar) two narrow bands of limestone
are crossed followed by well-marked Blaini conglomerate as far as Tothal.
Here the dip leans over to the north-east at the foot of the descent from Rauli the conglomerate again appears, being doubtless the northern band of the outcrop
seen near Kalhel which here joins the conglomerate of Pangi.
This outcrop ends
near the stream from the Marhu Pass but at the Harsar Nala, halfway between
Tindi and Silgraon, another well-marked outcrop begins and continues as far as
the Silgraon encamping-ground. Beyond this point the rocks are Silurian with an
old facies and the dip is north-east, but gradually becomes vertical between
Silgraon and Margraon and it continues vertically to some way east of
Triloknath when it inclines over to the south-west.
Blocks of conglomerate
are found in the side nalas east of Triloknath. These are from the outcrop seen
on the Sach Pass which runs eastward and is again seen in the Cheni ice
stream between Shor and Tothal and again at Silgraon. From this point it
has been traced as far as the Kalicho Pass and probably bends south a little
east of this to join the Bharmour outcrop in the Chobia Nala. The
gneissose-granite of Pangi is part of a very extensive granite intrusion
that is crossed on the way from Kishtwar to Pangi.
It first appears on the
road at Piyas. In Pangi the southern margin south of Kilar runs to the south of
Parmaur and Tuan, and is seen in the Chasag Nala, and north of Tingrat in the
Miyar Nala. It then contracts considerably in width and is crossed by the
Central Asian trade road between Kolang and Darcha in British Lahul.
As
regards the age of the rocks in the Chamba area, no fossils have been found in
the Silurian series, but the Blaini Conglomerate which is now generally
admitted to be of glacial origin is considered by General McMahon to be of
Devonian age at the latest. Crinoid stems are abundant in one of the beds of
the Carbotriassic series from which Mr. Lydekker formed the opinion that the
limestone is not older than the Carbo-triassic nor younger than the Trias.
Again, according to General McMahon the Gneissose granite of the Dhauladhar
was erupted at the end of the Eocene or beginning of the Miocene division of the
Tertiary period.
The level plateaux along the banks of the Ravi and the Siyul and in the side valleys are chiefly composed of alluvial conglomerate and sand. They may be regarded as of lacustrine origin, or may have been formed by the wash of the rivers, in the same way as similiar alluvial deposits at the present time.
SHOOTING IN THE CHAMBA STATE
Chamba State continues to maintain its reputation for good shooting, as is evident from the steady increase in the number of sportsmen who visit it every year. It is, however, admitted that shooting is not so good now as it used to be in 1870 but the introduction of the Shooting Rules in the State has afforded a good deal of protection to the game. The rules which were first published did not restrict the number of animals to be shot by each sportsman during the season, but the revision in 1904 imposed this restriction. This limit has produced good results as the game is said to be thriving.
The game to be found in the State is ibex, thar, Gural, Sarao, snow-leopard, barking-deer, musk-deer, black and brown bear, pig, and leopard. In the Ravi Valley there is only one place (Kugti) where ibex and sometimes a snow- leopard can be had, but in the Chenab Valley, they are fairly numerous.
For shooting the Churah Wazarnt is considered good and many sportsmen go there, but this is accounted for by the fact that a great number of shikaris come from this Wazarat. It was quite the best place in the Ravi Valley for shooting up till 1885 but the tract has lately been much shot out, and so it has become second in importance to the Bharmour Wazarat.
In the Chenab Valley, Pangi is decidedly better than Chamba-Lahul for shooting, but the country on the right bank of the Chenab in Pangi is strictly closed against shooting. The Saichu Nala in Sach Pargana, which is one of the State preserves in the Valley, contains more ibex than any other part of the Wazarat. In Lahul the Miyar Nala is supposed to be the best for ibex.
For sportsmen who wish to shoot in the Churah Wazarat the nearest route from the plains is through Dalhousie and Khajjiar. This route is also the shortest to Pangi, but sportsmen generally go there via Kishtwar and Padar, especially if they wish to shoot in both Territories, i.e. in Kashmir and Chamba. The Bharmour Wazarat is more accessible via, the Kuarsi Pass from the Dharmshala side, but this pass is not open till late in the season, so it is advisable to proceed there through Chamba.
Shooting in the Bhutyat (Bhattiyat) is not very good and the only animals to be got there are gural, pig, and barking-deer. Small game shooting is fairly plentiful all over the State but Monal and Tragopans are not allowed to be shot without the special permission of the Raja.
Barasingha are only found in Bhandal during the rutting season. The Nalas in which they are found are the Rajs's rakhs and strictly preserved. The Raja generally shoots there every season and so permission is very seldom if ever given to sportsmen to shoot Barasingha in his territory.
The Sai pargana in the Churah Wazarat is also closed for his own shooting and none but his special friends are allowed to shoot in it. Copies of the Shooting Rules and the Rules for the occupation of the State and Forest Rest-houses on the main routes, and a list of 1st Class Shikaris, may be had on application at the State Secretariat.
In the Chenab Valley, Pangi is decidedly better than Chamba-Lahul for shooting, but the country on the right bank of the Chenab in Pangi is strictly closed against shooting. The Saichu Nala in Sach Pargana, which is one of the State preserves in the Valley, contains more ibex than any other part of the Wazarat. In Lahul the Miyar Nala is supposed to be the best for ibex.
For sportsmen who wish to shoot in the Churah Wazarat the nearest route from the plains is through Dalhousie and Khajjiar. This route is also the shortest to Pangi, but sportsmen generally go there via Kishtwar and Padar, especially if they wish to shoot in both Territories, i.e. in Kashmir and Chamba. The Bharmour Wazarat is more accessible via, the Kuarsi Pass from the Dharmshala side, but this pass is not open till late in the season, so it is advisable to proceed there through Chamba.
Shooting in the Bhutyat (Bhattiyat) is not very good and the only animals to be got there are gural, pig, and barking-deer. Small game shooting is fairly plentiful all over the State but Monal and Tragopans are not allowed to be shot without the special permission of the Raja.
Barasingha are only found in Bhandal during the rutting season. The Nalas in which they are found are the Rajs's rakhs and strictly preserved. The Raja generally shoots there every season and so permission is very seldom if ever given to sportsmen to shoot Barasingha in his territory.
The Sai pargana in the Churah Wazarat is also closed for his own shooting and none but his special friends are allowed to shoot in it. Copies of the Shooting Rules and the Rules for the occupation of the State and Forest Rest-houses on the main routes, and a list of 1st Class Shikaris, may be had on application at the State Secretariat.
ROUTES.
Chamba
The town of Chamba stands on a small plateau near the confluence of the Saho and the Ravi. It has a population of 6,000. Behind and to the east rises the Shah Madar hill, crowned by the ziarat of that Muhammadan saint. Southwards a small rocky spur from this hill slopes towards the Ravi and limits the town in that direction. To the north is the deep gorge of the Saho. Facing the town and to the west flows the Ravi under a steep cliff about 150 feet high.
The town is built on two terraces. On the lower is the Chaugan a fine grassy sward, about half a mile long by eighty yards broad. Tradition is silent as to its use as a polo ground, and the name is etymologically distinct from Chaugan, the Persian name of Polo, being of Sanskrit origin and meaning " four-sided." Besides being a public promenade and recreation ground, the Chaugan is utilized for State Darbars and sports.
At its southern end stands the Residency, in its own grounds, elegantly furnished. Originally erected as a residence for the Political Officer it is now used as a Guesthouse and Lord and Lady Curzon were accommodated in it in 1900. East of the Chaugan are the Hazri Bagh Club and State Offices while further on is the main Bazar of the town. For nearly half its length, the Chaugan overlooks the Ravi. At the chaugan Gate stand the Post and Telegraph Offices and from it, another line of shops runs to the Kotwali and the State Museum .
The town is built on two terraces. On the lower is the Chaugan a fine grassy sward, about half a mile long by eighty yards broad. Tradition is silent as to its use as a polo ground, and the name is etymologically distinct from Chaugan, the Persian name of Polo, being of Sanskrit origin and meaning " four-sided." Besides being a public promenade and recreation ground, the Chaugan is utilized for State Darbars and sports.
At its southern end stands the Residency, in its own grounds, elegantly furnished. Originally erected as a residence for the Political Officer it is now used as a Guesthouse and Lord and Lady Curzon were accommodated in it in 1900. East of the Chaugan are the Hazri Bagh Club and State Offices while further on is the main Bazar of the town. For nearly half its length, the Chaugan overlooks the Ravi. At the chaugan Gate stand the Post and Telegraph Offices and from it, another line of shops runs to the Kotwali and the State Museum .
The State Hospital is a massive building, standing at the north end of the Chaughn. Behind it is the Dak Bungalow and near it the new Guest-house. North-east of the Hospital is the Mission Compound with Mission Houses, Dispensary and Church. On the upper terrace the most conspicuous building is the Palace, in two large blocks, the northern containing the Public Darbar halls and living rooms, while the southern is the Bhera or Zanan Khana. Most of the present building was erected by Raja Sham Singh, but the oldest portion, its north-west comer, called the Kandchandi was built by Raja Ummed Singh (1748-64). The Darbar Halls are all furnished in European style.
The entrance is from the north-east into an outer courtyard tastefully laid out in flower beds. with fountains. Adjoining the Palace is the present of Raja's residence. East and south of the Palace, and between it and the Shah Madar Hill stand the houses of many of the higher classes of the inhabitants, and of most of the State officials, Conspicuous among them is the Rang Mahal or Old Palace, which, however is really quite modern.
The aqueduct from the Sarota stream, made by Raja Sahil Varma (A. D. 920) enters the town at the foot of the Shah Madar Hill. where a steep flight of stone steps built by Sarda, Rani of Raja Jit Singh (1794-1808), leads to an ancient shrine upon the hill. Another long stone ladder ascribed to Raja Raj Singh (1764-94) leads up the rocky spur to the south of the town, to the Chamunda Temple whence a fine view is obtained up and down the valley.
A second new Guest-house has also been built to the south of the Residency in Darogh suburb, and near it is the Forest Bungalow. The State barracks stand to the south of the town near Jalakhri village. The most interesting buildings in Chamba are the ancient temples, which are of great architectural beauty. A11 the larger ones are decorated with ornate carvings and in appearance closely resemble the temples in Rajputana.
The six principal temples stand in a row on a platform near the north-west corner of the Palace. Three of then are dedicated to Vishnu and three to Shiva. The temple of Hari Rai by the Chaugan Gate is said to be of great antiquity and legend affirms that the Ravi once flowed in a shallow stream across the chaugan and the temple had to be approached by stepping stones.
At the north end of the Hazri Bagh stands the Champavati Temple, the family temple of the Rajas. Two other temples Bansi Gopal near the eastern mate of the Palace and Sita Ram's near the Raja's house, are of the same type and a third, with fine carvings dedicated to Bajreshvari or Bhagavati, stands on the Sarota Nala.
All these are Shikhara or spired temples, in contrast with the temples of the hills which are usually pent-roofed. The town has a good water supply and an electric light installation in the principal buildings and in the Bajar, with arc lamps on the Chaugan.
The Chamba State is divided into the following five Wazairats :--Chamba and Bharmour in the main Ravi Valley Churah in the Siyul Valley, Bhattiyat to the south of the Dhaula Dhar and Pangi in the Chandra Bhaga Valley. Each Wazarat is sub-divided into a certain number of Parganas or ilaqas, and there are 60 of these small administrative districts in the whole State.
In each Pargana there is a State Kothi which is the official headquarters of the district. The pargana officials are called Char, likhnehara and Balwal or collectively Kardars, and travelers should always apply to them for assistance in procuring coolies and supplies. As a rule, the stages are so arranged that the halting-place where coolies are changed is near a Kothi, and where this is not possible a special State official is appointed at the stage to attend to the comfort of travelers. The coolies being all farmers are not under obligation to go farther than one stage with the traveler, unless where no change of coolies is possible as on a snowy pass.
For the rates payable to coolies refer to Schedule of Coolie Rates issued by the State Travelers generally begin the journey into the interior from Chamba where all ordinary supplies are procurable. English stores, if not purchased in Dalhousie, may be had at D. C. Khanna's shop in Chamba.
It is advisable to bring servants up from the plains as the number of cooks, etc. in Chamba is very limited. No tents are to be had on hire, and these as well as camp furniture should be brought from the plains or Dalhousie. Ordinary supplies such as fuel, milk, ghee, and atta are procurable at every stage where there is a State official on duty. Fowls and eggs are abundant in Churah and to a lesser degree in the Chamba Wazarat but are not plentiful in Bharmour or Bhattiyat.
In Pangi eggs maybe got in Kilar. Sheep can usually be purchased through the officials, but the price varies in different localities. The only other supplies procurable in Pangi are atta, ghi, milk, and fuel. Late in the season potatoes may often be had in the interior of the State. Good chaplies which are much superior to boots for hill traveling may be had in Chamba but are best made to order. Travelers should see that the socks are stitched with leather instead of thread. Two pairs of socks to every pair of chaplies are recommended.
Routes From The Plains
Pathankot to Chamba
Approach Routes.-Three main lines of road, I'll diverge from Pathankot, lead from the plains and reunite where they reach the Suspension Bridge over the Ravi, close to the town. These are, respectively, the Dalhousie, Sandhara, and Chuari roads. The Dalhousie road has already been described.Pathankot to Chamba via Sandhara
This is an ancient line of communication with the plains. dating probably from very early times.After touching the Ravi at Shahpur (6 miles), it follows the left bank of that river, passes Phangota (12 miles), and enters Chamba at Kairi. From Singhara (10 miles) it ascends the Gaggidhar ridge, north of Dalhousie, and is connected by a branch from Banikhet with the Dalhousie road. After sinking to Bathri (12 miles) it again rises and crosses the Chi1 spur, but descends to the Ravi at Udaipur, and thence follows its left bank to the Suspension Bridge (15 miles) which is 57 miles from Pathankot or 65 via Banikhet. Since the Dalhousie, the road was made this route has been little used for through traffic, but the stretch from Chamba to Banikhet is much used in winter. The scenery between Shahpnr and Sandhara is picturesque, but the road is rough for laden animals, especially between Phangota and Sandhara.
At Shahpur a branch runs through the low hills to join the Pathankot-Dalhousie road about three miles south of Dhar. The road is not kept in good order but is passable. The distance from Shahpur to Dhar is 12 miles.
From Sandhara. to Shahpur Kandi, a distance of 25 miles, the Ravi is navigable in spring and autumn or a Khatnau or bed-raft. This is a light charpai, resting on and lashed to two dreins or inflated skins, on which the traveler sits, while the raft is piloted by two men swimming alongside. The journey is accomplished in 7 hours. The arrangement is made by the State Vakil st Dalhousie. The traveler should spend the night, in Sandhara rest-house and start at daylight.
There are rest-houses at Shahpur, Sandhiira, Bathri, and Chil.
Pathankot to Chamba via Chuari.
This is another old line of communication with the plains. After leaving the Kangra Valley road at Nurpur it runs north, into the low hills towards the Dhaula Dhar. Near Malukal it enters Chamba territory. At Ghatasni it leaves the river and ascends a spur to Chuari (16 miles). It then crosses the Dhaula Dhar by the Chuari or Basodan Pass, 8,000 feet, and descends to the Ravi at the town of Chamba (18 miles). From Pathankot to Chamba by this route is only 50 Miles, so that it is shorter than either of the other routes. It is used all year round. For two or three months in winter, the Chuari Pass is usually under the snow, but the road is se1dom closed to pedestrians for more than a few days at a time. Above jajari stand the ruins of Taragarh Fort built by Raja Jagat Singh of Nurpur about A. D. 1625-30.
Branch Roads- (1). From Chuari s branch road runs via Sihunta (16 miles) to Shahpur (12 miles) where it joins the Kangra Valley road. It is about 51 miles from Chamba to Dharmshala by this route, but some of the streams are not bridged and may be difficult to ford during the rains otherwise, the road is good, and fit for ponies and pack animals. Near the Chamba, the border is the ruins of the old fort. of Ganeshgarh, erected by Raja Ganesh Varma about A. D. 1550.
(2). From Chuari another branch runs to Bakloh (12 miles) and thence to Dalhousie (14 miles), and from the top of the Chuari Pass, a rough bridle-path runs via DayanKund and Ka1atop to Dalhousie (18 miles). There is a Dak Bungalow at Nurpur and State rest- houses at Chuari and Sihunta,
Dalhousie to Chamba.
Four roads run from Dalhousie to Chamba, via the Khajjiar, Kolhri. Chil and Bathri routes.
Khajjiar Road.-This the road begins at the Dalhousie Post Office, ascends Bakrota hill and leaving Kalatop on the left, winds through a dense forest of pines and deodar to Khajiar (10 miles) a forest glade of great beauty, 6300 feet above sea level.
On the brink of a small lake in its. the center stands an old shrine to Khaji Nag, from which the place takes its name greensward slopes on all sides towards the lake, and the glade is encircled by a forest of cedars. The lake is about 15 feet deep and has a floating island, marked by tall grass. During the summer Khajjiar is much frequented by visitors. After leaving Khajjiar the road runs level for a short distance but soon descends rapidly into the Ravi Valley, which suddenly bursts into view, with the town of Chamba far below. The reaches of the river near the town are visible, and to the south, the valley is closed in by a high granite peak of the Dhaula Dhar, called Kankot, which is covered with snow for nine months in the year. The last part of the road drops by an easy gradient to the Ravi and ascends from the Suspension Bridge to the town.
The distance is 19 miles from Dalhousie to Chamba by this road, but it is usually closed by snow from December to April. There are Dak Bungalows at Khajjihr and Chamba, but the former is closed for some months in winter.
Kolhri Road. An alternative route to Chamba is the Kolhri road, 22 miles in length. Leaving Dalhousie near the Post Office it descends with a gentle gradient to Kolhri and then to the Ravi, joining the Sandhara road at Udaipur.
Chi1 Road.- At the 7th mile on the Kolhri road, a level cross-road runs to Chil (9 miles) and connects the Kolhri and Sandhara roads. The distance to Chamba via Chil is 20 miles.
Bathrti Road.This road, after leaving the Post Office, descends into the Bathri Valley, to join the Sandhara road at Bathri (5 miles). Being mostly at a low level it is much used in winter when the other roads are under snow. The distance to Chamba is 20 miles. The Kolhri and Bathri roads are hotter and less interesting than the Khajjiar road, and are, therefore, little used in summer, though much used for mule transport.
Chamba to Kilar in Pangi via Sach Pass.
Pangi Road -This road on leaving Chamba descends to the right bank of the Ravi, but at Kiyani it leaves the river and ascends to Pukhri, on the watershed between the Ravi and the Siyul. Rising to Masrund (12 miles), it drops to cross the Karair Nala and rising again winds along the slopes overhanging the Siyul to the rest-house at Kalhel (9 miles). Here it descends to moss the Kalhel stream, and regaining its former elevation runs on the level till it drops again to the Nakror bridge and there it crosses the Chanju Nala. It then winds along the slopes for some distance and crossing the Tisa Nala ascends to Tisa (12 miles). From the top of the ridge above Tisa it descends to the Baira Nala, which it crosses at Gauri, and then runs up the Always Nala to Tharela, and a few miles further on reaches Always (12 miles). Here coolies must be engaged to cross the Sach Pass, 14,328 feet, in three marches, to Kilar in Pangi. The stages are Silrundi (7 miles) and Donei over the pass (9 miles), Bindraban (5 miles), Kilar (5 miles). There are small glaciers near the top, and the snow is low down till June. Prom July the pass is easy and the road almost free of snow. Near Dhid the road enters the main Pangi Valley, and crossing the Chandra Bhaga by a wooden bridge ascends to Kilar.
The Pangi road is good all the way, except for the toilsome ascents and descents at the different tributaries of the Style. Ponies can go as far as Allah's. There are State rest-houses at Masrund, Kalhel, Tisa, Always, Bindraban, and Kilar Special permission is ' necessary for Pukhri rest-house.
Chamba to Mindhal in Pangi via Cheni Pass
A branch leaves the Pangi road three miles beyond Tisa (33 miles) and runs to Debri-Kotlri (12 miles). Here, coolies are engaged for the Chennai Pass (14,290 feet), which is crossed in three marches to Mindhal in Pangi. After passing Hail and entering the Nala the road is a little rough for five miles. Higher up the Nala is open and the road good. Camp near the foot of the pass (9 miles). 9 large cave high up on right bank affords good shelter in bad weather. On the second day, the ascent is steep over the glacier and a precipitous cliff, where the road is dangerous. On the north is an icefield for some distance and then a rapid descent. Camp at grats near the junction of the ice stream; (10 miles). The third day's march to Mindhal is a short one of 6 miles.
KILAR
Killar the headquarters of the Pangi Wazarat, is about 68 miles from Chamba. It is a mere cluster of villages with a State Kothi and a Forest rest-house. A Post Office, where all ordinary postal business is transacted, is open from May till October. In n cedar grove near the rest-house, is Dev Nag temple where a buffalo is sacrificed over third, fifth, or seven-year in Katak (October).
MINDHAL
At Mindhal, a village in Pangi on the left bank of the Chandra Bhaga, opposite Sach is the temple of Chamunda or Mindhal Basan Devi, which has long been a place of pilgrimage. Square in shape, with a pent roof-which, is the usual style of Devi temples in the hills it is made of wood and stone and comprises s central cella with two verandahs, one enclosed and the other open. The idol is in the human form of black tone and is believed to have sprung out of the ground, and to extend to a great depth downwards.
A meal, held here in Bhadon, is frequented by people from all the neighboring valleys, and as many as 100 sheep and goats are sacrificed, the blood which is made to flow into a hole near the temple door being believed to run under the group to a pool near the river which it tinges red.
Kilar to Kishtwar
From Kilar, the road runs down the right bank of the Chandra Bhaga at a high level. Near Darwas (7 miles) there is a steep descent to cross the Sural Nala and then a more gradual one to the jhula over the Sansari Nala, which is the Chamba boundary. Rising steeply the road runs on to Ashdari (12 miles), and then again descends to cross the Angai Nala and further on the Kaban Nala at Sol (12 miles). This stage is rough. From Sol to Gulabgarh or Atholi (8 miles) the road is fairly good. From Gulabgarh a branch ascends the Bhutna Nala and crosses the Umasi Pass (17400 feet) to Padam in Zanskar.
The road is fairly good all the way. There is a large snowfield on the top of the pass and the descent on the north side is very steep for a short distance over snow. The marches from Gulabgarh are-Mashu, 8 miles Chishoti, 8 miles, Lusain, 12 miles; camp at Sumjam near Sapphire mine, 8 miles , camp at Ruhar (15.000 feet), 8 miles, Gaura, 12 miles, overpass Ayting, 10 miles; Padam, 6 miles. Coolies are taken from Lusain to Ayting and traveler's baggage is examined at Sumjam by the sepoy guard. The lower part of the Bhutna Nala is exceedingly pretty, and there is a fine cataract below Chishoti.
The main road to Kishtwar crosses to the left bank of the Chandra Bhaga at Padar. The camping ground at Atholi where there is a Post Office and small dispensary. The application should be made to the Tahsildar for coolies and supplies for three days. The hot sulfurous springs should be visited. First march-Atholi to ShBsho, 15 miles, road good, first four miles on the plain. Jhar is the last village. Shisho to Piyas, 12 miles, road good but very precipitous in many parts picturesque bridge over Kontaru Nala, fine scenery all the way. Piyas to Ohli, 12 miles, road good but precipitous as far as Piyas Nala Change coolies at Ohli. Oh to Kishtwar, 12 miles, road good all the way very fine view of Kishtwar plain from the shoulder of the hill.
Since the opening of the new road a few years ago, the old road from Padar vid Sereri to Kishtwhr, most of which is very difficult, has been abandoned. From Sereri very fine views are obtained of the Brahma peaks, 21,000 feet.
Kilar to Lahul and Kulu
After leaving Kilar the road crosses the Hunan stream and gradually drops to the bank of the main river at Siddh- ka dera. It then enters a narrow chasm where the planks, forming the roadway, are supported on iron bars fixed in the cliff. The Parmaur and Saichu Nalas are crossed near Cheri, the next stage, on the river bank below Sach (8 miles). At Mindhal Bridge the road crosses to the left bank and runs almost level to Purthi (10 miles). The Cheni and Shilal streams are bridged by strangers and on a rock near the latter stream are the glacial markings noted.
At Purthi the road crosses the river by a jhula to reach the forest rest-house; the main road running on past Ajog to the jhula at Shor (4 miles). The scenery from Kilar - to Shor is very fine. The new road from Kilar to Shor was made in 1869-70, and is fairly good all the way, except at four spots where special care is necessary these are at the rocky chasm near Phindru between Cheri and the Mindhal bridge the approach to Purthi and between Purthi and Shor.
The old road ascends from Cheri after crossing the Saichu Nala and climbs through forest to the higher slopes, along which it runs to Reh and Purthi, rejoining the lower road at the Shor jhula. Except for a short distance east of Reh, this road through steep is good, and from it, fine views of the main valley are obtained. A picturesque bridge spans the Mujar Nala near Purthi.
From Shor to Tindi are two marches and no change at Rauli. The road which is difficult in places follows the left bank at a high level to Total, a small flat opposite the Karun Nala. Beyond Tothal it runs along the face of a precipice over-hanging the Chandra Bhaga to Rauli (9 miles), and most of the way is narrow and dangerous but between Rauli and Tindi (7 miles), it is fairly good. From Tindi to the Harser Nala is an open flat, but the rest of the way to Silgraon (8 miles) is along the face of the cliff and somewhat difficult. At Silgraon the road crosses to the right bank, and except at the Kurcher Na1a and one other spot, it is narrow and dangerous all the way to the Darer Nala near Margraon. At Margraon (12 miles) the Urgad Nala is crossed, and from this point the valley is open and the road good. At Udaipur, the Miyar Nala is crossed by a wooden bridge, and Triloknath (6 miles) on the left bank, is reached by a bridge over the main river. Another bridge above Triloknath carries the road back to the right bank, along which it runs to the Chamba border at Tirot and then to Jarma (14 miles] in British Lahul. The Tirot Nala is crossed by a wooden bridge.
The next stages are Lota, 7 miles; and Keylong 9 miles. Road is good from Margraon, and fit for ponies. There are State rest-houses at Kilar, Cheri, Sach, Purthi, and Tindi, with a small hut at Rauli, also a rest-house at Keylong.
Triloknath
The Triloknath temple is in Chamba-Lahul, where a local Rana or Thakur resides. The temple is in the Shikhara style like those at Chamba, but in front of it is an older shrine, in the style of a hill temple, which is Buddhist. It contains an image of Triloknath or Avalo- kiteshvara, artistically carved in white marble, and representing a Bodhisattva figure, seated cross-legged.
It has six arms, three on each side, and stands about three feet high. Facing the temple, and adjoining it, are places for the accommodation of pilgrims to the shrine. The Mela held in August is accompanied by drinking and dancing. No sacrifices are offered at the shrine, and the Puja chiefly consists in keeping lamps always burning before the image, and in reciting passages from the sacred books.
The lights are of wicks fed with ghi, and great numbers of them are arranged in a platter, and then lit. The officiating priest is a lama and the control of the temple is entirely in the hands of the local Ran$, whose residence is close by, and whose ancestors have held their lands from time immemorial. This tirtha is visited by pilgrims from all parts of India and even from Ladakh and Tibet Proper, Hindus, and Buddhists intermingling as if they were of one faith. The pilgrims come either from the Kulu or the Pangi direction, and Hindu sadhus frequently lose their lives in attempting to cross the high snowy passes into the Ravi Valley.
The shrine was originally Hindu and dedicated to Shiva. At Udaipur near Triloknath is the temple of Mirkula Devi which contains some fine Buddhist carvings. Near Triloknath the first signs of Buddhism are seen in the long low walls covered with loose stones, on each of which is inscribed the Buddhist prayer. Om mani padmi hom. These become more numerous, longer, and more elaborate in British Lahul. The walls are called mani, and it is considered an act of great merit to have contributed to their construction. The lettering is usually done by the lamas, who must be well-remunerated for their trouble, and therein lies the merit of the deed.
2. A similar branch from Kilar runs up the Hunan Nala and crosses the Shinkil Pass (16,300 feet).
3. From Sach, a branch ascends the Saichu Nala to Saichu (10 miles), and Tuan (8 miles) and crosses the Mun La (16,500 feet), and unites with the two roads from Darwas and Kilar the combined road then crosses the Poatla (17,500 feet) to Burdan Gompa in Zanskar.
The roads from Kilar and Tuan are now seldom used. That from Darwas takes five days to Burdan Gompa,. The stages are Kansar, 8 miles , Atyud, 10 miles , Gokhun (over Sarsank Pass) 16 miles. Sangati (Danlong Nala), 6 miles, Punchi (over Poatla) 12 miles; Burdan Gompa, 6 miles. Large glaciers on both passes.
In former times a certain amount of Central Asia,n trade went by these routes while still more passed through Padar and by the Umasi la to Padam in Zanskar. It came from Pathankot and Nurpur and over the Sach and Cheni Passes to Pangi.
4. In the Saichu Na1a, an upper road runs from Kutal near Sach to Shun and rejoins the other road at Hillu, but it is rough and in places dangerous. From Saichu a branch runs up the Chasag Nala to Bhotaur (10 miles) and crosses the Gurdhar Pass (16,791 feet), to Miyar (20 miles) in the Miyar Nala. This pass is so-called owing to its being passable for ponies, which are brought from Lahul by this route to Pangi and over the Sach Pass to Chamba. Two men are needed to render help at difficult parts of the road.
5. At Udaipur s branch runs up the Miyar Nala and is narrow and difficult for four riles. From Chimrat (12 miles) the valley is open and to the road good, up to the head of the valley where it crosses the Kang La, 17,500 feet, in the Western Himalaya to Burdan Gompa. The journey from Kanjer, the last village occupies five days. The stages are Gompa, 8 miles; Kesaryuncha, 7 miles; Dutombn, 8 miles Churiil-pachan, (over Kang La), 12 miles, Bardan Gompa, 6 miles.
6. Beyond Kanjer a branch ascends a side na1a to cross the Tharang La, 17,133 feet, to the head of the Kado Tokpo stream in British Lahu1. The journey from Kanjer to Darcha takes four days, large glacier but road fairly good no village till near Dkrcha.
Beyond Chhatrari the road drops to the Chirchind Nala and rises by a long ascent to Kothi and the Sarali Pass (9,000 feet). It then drops to Ulansa (12 miles), and Gurola, on the left bank of the Ravi and crossing the river rises to Khani, whence it follows the Budhil Valley up to Brahmaur (10 miles). Hursar (10 miles) is the next stage beyond Brahmaur and so far the road is good, but thence to Kugti (12 miles) most of it is rough and narrow. A hill pony can be taken as far as Brahmaur.
From Kugti the road crosses the Kugti Pass to Jobrang in British Lahu1. The distance is 24 miles or 3 marches, and the same coolies go all the way. There is deep snow till June, but in July and August the pass is almost clear and there is no permanent glacier. The pass is very steep near the top on both sides otherwise, the road is good. New snowfalls in September. The following are the stages:- first day from Kukti to the foot of pass (8 miles) second day over the pass 17,001 feet (10 miles) the third day a short march to Jobrang (6 miles). The next stage is to jarma (4 miles) or Lota (8 miles), and the Chandra Bhaga is crossed by a long and difficult jhula near Jobrang.
There are State rest-houses at Rakh, Chhatrari, Ulansa, and Bharmour.
Another tradition says that Gugga was accidentally killed by a fall from the roof of the temple porch, after having all but completed his work. The name " Chhatrari " is derived from the words Chhattis (36) and larhi, (three acres), 36 larhis of land having formed the sasan, or grant made to the temple by Raja Bala Bhadra (1589-1641). A mela is held here in September, on the third day after the Durbashtmi mela at the Mani Mahesh lake whence a man bring a lota of water with which the idol is bathed.
The level ground on which the temples stand is called the chaurasi. Bharmour is the headquarters of the Wazarat of that name and has a Post Office open for 6 or 7 months in summer. There is a forest rest-house on a beautiful site about a mile from the State Kothi. The country around Brahmaur is regarded as belonging to Shiva, and is sometimes called " Shiv-bhumi ": being the home of the Gaddi tribe it is also called Gaddaran.
Mani Mahesha Lake
One march from Harsar in the Budhil Valley is Mani Mahesh, one of the chief titles or places of in the State. The lake lies on a small plane in the Mani Mahesh Range 13,000 feet above sea level, and at the base of the Kailash peak (18,564 feet). It is of no great size, and on its margin is a small marble image of Shiva, called the Chaumukha. A mela held here every year in Bhadon or Asuj is frequented by pilgrims who come to bathe in the lake from all the surrounding districts, and even from distant parts of India.
There is a very steep ascent of 4,000 feet on the pass where the road is dangerous from falling stones; the descent is steep near the top then easy to Triloknhth. Camp near the foot of the pass.
On the next march, the steep descent continues to the bed of the stream, which is crossed, and the road ascends and runs on to Lunek (8 miles) in the bed of the Chanju Nala. Coolies for the Darati Pass, 15,000 feet, can be procured through the kardars at Chanju Kothi. A halt is usually made, on the way to the pass, at Kalpra, the last village, where arrangements are completed. There are good encamping grounds near the foot of the pass, where fuel is procurable.
The pass is very steep for 3,000 feet, and a little dangerous near the top. Care should be taken to avoid displacing stones. The crossing is difficult in May and June, but fairly easy from July when the snow has melted. The descent to Tindi is easy and rapid, and the whole distance from Kalpra can be done in two days. This road is fairly good all the way. Ponies and laden animals go as far as Sikh GrBt, where there is a rest-house.
The ascent from there to the pass is long but not steep like the Darati. The descent is over the rock to the camp in the bed of the stream. The third march, his along the mountain slopes to Tindi and is quite easy. There is a good rest-house at Tindi.
Ordinary supplies are procurable ah each stage.
From Saho it ascends the Keri Nala and crosses the Panjungla Range to Sacraina (12 miles) and over the Bailj Range to Bailj (12 miles) and Kanaiter (6 miles), finally crossing the Tundahen Range by the Bagair Pass to Manda' (16 miles); from there, one branch crosses the Tundahen Nala to Badra (6 miles) and joins the road to the Kali- Cho Pass and another branch runs to Bagra (8 miles) and Bhamour (8 miles). Ponies can go to Saho, where there is a rest-house; beyond this, the road is very long rough. Ordinary supplies are procurable at each stage.
Roads cross the Dhaula Dhar from the Ravi Valley to Kangra by numerous passes, but the principle is the following:-Bohar Pass, 11,602 feet from Bakan or Rasu to Boh in Rihlu, Baleni Pass, 11,900 feet from Basu or Piyur to Dareni in Rihlu; Indrahar Pass, 14,150 feet, from Kuarsi to Dharmsala; Wahar Pass, 14,101 feet, from Chanair to Palampur; Sarai Pass, 14,082 feet, from Sarai to Baijnath. None of the passes are passable for ponies; two marches.
From Bara Bangahal roads cross the Kalihin Pass in the Bara Bangahal Range, to Kulu the Makori, Gauri, and Thamsar Passes in the Dhaula Dhar to Chhota Bangahal, and the Chobu Pass to Kugti. These Passes are all 16,000 to 17,000 feet and the roads rough.
The old road from Sundla follows the right bank of the Siyul to Manjir, rises to Salooni, and descends to cross the Siyul at the Kalor bridge, rejoining the new road at Pala bridge. From Bhandal the old road follows the left bank of the Siyul to Langera (12 miles) and is very rough in places. Thence it ascends the Pidari Pass 10,000 feet and descends rapidly to Thanala in Bhadralvah (16 miles).
The Bhadrawih road is good, with easy gradients as far as Bhandal, and when finished, pack animals will be able to go all the way t,o Langera. Ponies go through to Bhadrawah, but parts of' the road on the Padari Pass are rough and somewhat unsafe for animals. The descent to thanala is very steep.
There are rest-houses at Sundla, Kihar, Bhandal, and Langera. From Tllanala to Bhadrawah the road is very good. There is a comfortable rest-house at Bhaderwah and supplies are easily obtained. The road then ascends to Chinta (4 miles) and the top of the Jaura ridge, along which it runs to Jaura (12 miles). Extensive views are obtained of the Chenab Valley. From Jaura there is a rapid descent to Jangalwiir (8 miles) near the Chenab. The road then runs up the left bank of the Cheniib to Kandani (12 miles) and Kashtwiir (12 miles) and is fairly level and good all the way. The same coolies should be taken from Jangal- war to Kishtwar as they are difficult to obtain at Khndani without previous notice to the TahsildBr of Kashtwar. A new road on this route has now been made from Bhadrawah to Jaura vici Jai, on a low level, avoiding the steep ascent vid Chinta: distance.-Jai 8 miles and Jaurs 8 miles.
From Dusu to Achibal(l6 miles) is an easy march and about halfway the Kashmir plain bursts into view- a most fascinating panorama. From Achibal to Islamabad is 7 miles near which at Khanbal boats are available for the journey down the Jhelum to Srinagar. Ponies and pack animals can go all the way from Kishtwar to Islamabad. No.
From Shahabad the road is almost level to Islamabad (16 miles). This road is good all the way, but not passable for ponies, and ordinary supplies are procurable, especially at Doda.
Bhaderwah was formerly the capital of a small Native State embracing the Bhaderwah and Balesa Valleys. It was ruled by a branch of the family that formerly ruled in Basohli and which was, in turn, an offshoot from Kulu. The place was originally a jagir or private estate under Basohli and became independent about the time of Akbar. In the eighteenth century it was subject to Jammu but later came under the control of Chamba and was annexed by that State about 1920.
It was finally ceded to Jammu in 1846-7. The Rajas resided in the town but the palace has now disappeared. One of the later Chiefs built the fort. The territory extended to the Chenab and included the Bhadrawah and Balesa Valleys down to the Chenab.
An alternative route leaves the Pangi road beyond Tisa (33 miles) and crosses the Baira Nala to Sai (6 miles). It then ascends the left bank of the Barnotla Nala to Makan (12 miles) where it joins the previous road. The road then crosses the Barari Pass (12,000 feet) in the Dagani Dhar and descends to Jagaser in Balesa (16 miles); the pass is easy but takes two days. Does the route then descend the Kalguni Nala? through pretty scenery to Neli (10 miles). An alternative road to Neli leaves the Bhaderwah road near Bhandal (28 miles) and ascending the Sanghani Nalk to Gamgul (10 miles) crosses the Dagani Pass (12,852 feet) and descends to Bhanencha (12 miles) joining the previous road near Kot.
The pass is easy. Coolies go all the way from Bhandal. The main road from Neli follows the right bank of Kalgumi Nala and after crossing a ridge depends on' the Delenger or Balesa Nala and rises to Pringle(l0 miles). An alternative route to Pringal follows the Pangi road to Sai (39 miles) and ascends the Mangli Nala to Mangli (10 miles) It then crosses the Mailwar Pass (13,027 feet), in two marches to Manu in Upper Balesa (20 miles); and descends the right bank of the Delenger Nalit to Batoli (10 miles) and Pringal (10 miles).
From Pringal the road then rises to cross the watershed between the Balesa and Bhonjwah Nalas (9,500 feet) and descends steeply through the forest to the latter Nala which crosses and rises to Jawalapur in Bhonjwah (12 miles). From this point, it again rises crosses another ridge (9,500 feet), and descends through dense forest to the Surur Nala, after crossing which it ascends to Surur (12 miles).
It then runs along the mountain slopes, overlooking the Chandra Bhaga at a high level, to Sarteli (10 miles) and Kishtwar (12 miles). From Jawalapur there is an alternative route, which descends the Bhonj wah Nala and joins the lower road from Jangal- war to Kishtwar at the bridge over the Surur Nala. From Jawalapur also a road crosses the high ridge to Gauri in the upper Surur Nala (8 miles) and amends the Nala to Bhanger (10 miles) to cross the Panji Pass (15,000 feet) to Padar (24 miles); this road enters Padar near the hot springs. It is fairly easy, but the pass is steep near the summit. Coolies go all the way from Gauri to Padar, two marches. All ordinary supplies, including fowls and eggs, are procurable in Balesa and Bhonjwah
Dachin is an open flat where several streams meet and are very pretty. The road then crosses to the right bank and runs up through forest almost to Hanzal (14 miles). Reaches of the Maru Wardwan, with the scenery generally, are very striking. The next stage after leaving the forest traverses the Maru plain, four miles long and one broad, and the halting-place is at Maru (8 miles). Near this, in a side valley, are some hot springs. Above Maru, the valley is again narrow, but the road is good, and the scenery very beautiful to Inshin (16 miles) which is counted two marches from Maru.
The road crosses to the left bank, a few miles above Maru. No villages on the way. The Wardwan Valley, about half a mile wide, extends from Inshin to Suknes (16 miles), and for most of the way, a road runs on both sides of the river which is spanned by several bridges. At Suknes coolies are engaged for the Bhot Kol and Yadangshan Passes in the Western Himalaya, leading to Suru. The stages via the Bhot Kol Pass are Wompet or Dumbhoi (8 miles), camp in Bhotkol Nala (12 miles), Donera, overpass (14,400 feet), (12 miles), Suru (10 miles). The stages vid the Yadangshan pass is- Wompet or Dumbhoi (8 miles), camp in Moreskhol Nala (10 miles). Siri Marg, overpass (15,000, feet), (10 miles), Suru (15 miles). Yaks and ponies cross both passes, but on the Bhot Kol there is a long glacier with crevices that are dangerous in autumn; the Yadangshan has no glacier and is easy. For full information about these routes see Guide to Kashmir.
Kishtwar
Kishtwar is situated on a large plain 5,000 feet above sea-level and the Chandra Bhaga or Chenab river flows in a deep gorge along the northern and western margins
The town was formerly the capital of a Native State founded about A. D. 1000 by a branch of the same family now ruling in Suket, Mandi, and Keonthal and descended from the ancient rulers of Gour in Bengal. The State included the entire Chenab Valley from the Lidrhri Nala to Ramban, and also the Maru Wardwan Valley. The Rajas resided in the fort. The family was originally Rajput but became Muhammadan in the time of Aurangzeb. The State was overturned in A. D. 1820 by Raja Gulab Singh of Jammu, and annexed to the Sikh Kingdom. Shah Shuja of Kabul found refuge at Kishtwar for two years after escaping from Lahore in 1815. There is nothing special about the place except the Chaugk, a mile north of the town, which is the largest in the hills. The two ziarats or places of pilgrimage for Muhammadans one in the town and the other at the south end of the Chaugan are famous all through the hills.
At the next stage Mansar (10 miles) there is a small lake about a mile long, and at Saroin Sar (10 miles) another lake about half-a-mile long; both of these are places of pilgrimage. The road then passes over some low hills and crosses the Tawi, a little above Jammu (12 miles) This road, though rough in places, is good all the way but is difficult in the rainy season a,s the Ujh river has to be forded between Mandpur and Samburta and the Basanter to the west of Ramkot.
Basohli was the capital!al of a Native State founded about the eighth or ninth century by a cadet of the Kulu family. The original capital was at Balor, ancient Vallapura, referred to in the Rajatarangini some twelve or fourteen miles west of Basohli, where the old palace and fortifications are still to be seen. The State was subjected by the Sikhs and finally annexed to Jammu in 1836. Two small States- Bhadu-Puddoo of the map-and Bhaderwah were offshoots from Balor. The palace of the Rajas at Basohli now in a ruinous condition must have been a fine building in its day.
A descent is then made to Batot where there is also a Dak bungalow in the Chenab Valley, and a further descent to Ramban where the Chenab is crossed by a suspension bridge. Thence begins the long ascent up the valley of the Bichlari stream to Banihal, where there is another dak bungalow near the south end of the tunnel piercing the pass. The tunnel is one furlong in length and 8,989 feet above sea level. Snow lies well into May. From both ends of the tunnel, a magnificent view is obtained of the outer hills towards the south and of the Kashmir Valley towards the north. The descent then begins past Manda and on to Khanbal on the Jhelum near Islamabad, where the boat may be taken to Srinagar or the journey completed by the motor.
From Batot to Khanbal is 96 miles and from Khanbal to Srinagar 33 miles, making the whole distance from Jammu 313 miles. There are dak bungalows at Jammu, Udhampnr, Batot, Banihal, and Khanbal. Chaneni was formerly a Native State under its own Rajas, who ruled it for many years from about A. D. 820 to 1822 when it was annexed to Jammu State. The present Raja lives in his family palace in the town.
At Kandani (12 miles), the next stage, coolies or supplies are difficult to procure, unless notice has been sent to the Tahsildar of KashtwQr. After crossing the Shatli Nal& the road follows up the river ravine, at a low level, and finally ascends to Kashtwar (12 miles). Ponies go all the way and ordinary supplies are procurable. Bhaderwah is reached in two stages from Kaleni.
Basohli (Ihniles); height 2,170 feet, once the capital of a Native State, with the palace of the Rajas, now in ruins. The road then ascends gently to Bhund (13 miles) and more steeply on the next stage t.0 cross a ridge, descending to Bani (16 miles). It then runs up the left bank of the Siowa river, crosses a ridge and drops to Raulka or Sarteli (14 miles), and crosses the Chattardhar Pass (10,000 feet), to Basti (1.6 miles) and Bhsdrawah. (6 miles).
This road is in Jammu territory after crossing the Ravi and is fairly good all the way ponies go through to Bhaderwah. Supplies are easily procured.
The main road runs on through the valley on the level to Palampur (22 miles). A few miles beyond Shahpur the road t.o Dharmshala (10 miles) and Dadh (10 miles) ascends on the left and rejoins the main road near Palampur (10 miles). From Shahpur a road also runs to Kangra, (1 3 miles), and by Ranita1, Jawalamukhi, Nadaun, Hamirpur, and Bilaspur to Shimla. From Ranital a road goes to via Dehra Gopipur. The main road beyond Palampur runs on to Baijnath (10 miles) mostly through tea gardens all the way. At Baijnath (Vidiyanathpur) the ancient temple should be visited, erected-in A. D. 1204, as shown by the inscriptions on the slabs on the porch. In these inscriptions, the place is called Kiragrhma, and it was the residence and patrimony of a Rana or hill baron whose castle stood on or near the site of the present dak bungalow.
Beyond Baijnath the road enters the dun or narrow valley of Bir Banghal, through which it runs to Dhelu (12 miles). The bungalow is prettily situated on a spur overlooking the valley, and above it is an old hill fort. A few miles farther on is the Guma salt mine, worked by Mandi State, and beyond it, the upper road to Kulu leaves the main road and ascends the mountain slopes to Jhatingri (11 miles). It then descends to cross the Uhl river by a good bridge and rises by a long sweep to Bhadwani (13 miles).
Crossing the Bhubu Pass 9,480 feet it drops through the forest to karaun (10 miles) and follows the right bank of the Sarwari Nala to Sultanpur (8 miles). From Baijnath to the top of the Bhubu Pass, the road is in Mandi territory, and there are good bungalows all the way. This road is closed from December till March when the Bhubu Pass is under the snow, and the route via the Dulachi Pass in the same range must then be followed.
This route runs via Hurla (12 miles) and leaves the Mandi cart road at Drang (I2 miles), two marches on from Dhelu, where also there are salt mines and runs on the level to a ridge where it meets the road from Mandi. It then descends to cross the Uhl river by a suspension bridge and ascends a tributary of the Uhl for fire miles to Kataula (12 miles). Thence a steep ascent for nine miles leads to the summit of the Dulachi Pass (6,760 feet) over bare hill slopes, and then descent by many windings through beautiful forest scenery to Bajaura (18 miles), near the bank of the Beas. Here the old temple at Hat should be visited a full description of which is to be found in the Archeological Survey Report for 1909-10. Bungalows at Hurla ran Katarila and Bajaura. From Bajaura to Sultanpur (9 miles) the road runs on the level up the right bank of the Beas.
At Larji the road leaves the Beas and ascends the pretty Tirthan river at first on the right bank in Saraj tehsil of Kullu and then crosses by a cantilever bridge to the Mandi side, and on to Manglor.
At Manglor there is an old staging bungalow, but with no system of supplier-. Here you cross to the Saraj side veer round to the left and recross at Banjar (12 miles), where there is a fine new bungalow at the junction of the Jibhi and Tirthan streams. Banjar is about a mile farther on, with tehsil, post office, Sarai and school, and also a dispensary. Banjar to Shoja (10 miles) is a steep march up the pretty Jibhi torrent, through forests of deodar, the whole valley being well wooded.
At Shoja there is a good bungalow but very little in the way of a village. The next march from Shoja to Khanag (7 miles) is over the Jalori Pass, 10,650 feet, through the forest part of May. A fine view of the snowy range is obtained from the summit, and snow lies on the pass from November to April. At - Khanag there is a good bungalow on a pleasant site, looking down into the Satluj Valley. From Khanag the road continues to descend the Ani torrent, a very hot march in summer. The scenery is beautiful being all forest glen. At Ani (9 miles) there is a good * [The old line after crossing the Jalori Pass runs by Rot, Chawai and Dalash to the Luhri bridge, and Kotgarh. ]
bungalow, and nearby is the Salvation Army settlement. The road then drops to the Satluj, which is crossed by a suspension bridge and runs on the level to Luhri (11 miles) where there is a comfortable bungalow. From there a steep ascent is made to Narkanda (12 miles) on the Hindustan- Tibet road.
The other marches to Shimla are Matiana (11 miles), Theog (11 miles), Fagu (5 miles), Shimla (12 miles) all on the Hindustan-Tibet road with a dak bungalow at each stage.
From Manali is a short march to Kothi (6 miles). The bungalow is situated picturesquely on a ridge overlooking the valley here very narrow. Above the junction, with the Solang, the road ascends the cliffs where near Kothi the Beas flows for 3,000 yards through a deep chasm, not more than twenty feet wide at the top. The ascent to the Rohtang Pass (13,400 feet), begins at rahla, a few miles on, where there is a rest-house, and the road rises by many windings to the summit from whence an extensive grew of the Chandra Valley in Lahul is obtained. The contrast is striking between the luxuriant vegetation of Kullu and the bare rocks of Lahul.
After descending to Koksar bungalow (13 miles) the Chandra river is crossed by a bridge and the road runs on to Sisu (12 miles) and Gondhla (7 miles); it then falls gradually to the junction of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers at Tandi, crosses the Bhaga and ascends the right bank to Keylong (10 miles). the road is very good all the way from Sultanpur, and there is a bungalow- at each halting
At Keylong all arrangements must be made for the onward journey and ponies are best* for transport,. Tents are necessary as there are no rest-houses beyond Patseo.
The road ascends the right bank of the Bhaga river at a high level, passes Kolang, and reaches the rest-house at Jispa (13 miles). narcha marks the inner line, beyond which no traveler may go without the permission of the Deputy Commissioner of Kangra. The road is level to Darcha (12,000 feet) and then ascends steeply to Patseo (10 miles).
Hare a fair is held yearly in July and August for a month for traders from Ladakh and the plains. Most of the trade is done by barter. There is good rest-house.
The road now crosses the stream and rises by an easy gradient to Zingzingbar (6 miles). The tree vegetation, chiefly pencil cedar, fairly abundant in Lahul, now ceases and for many marches the only fuel available is a kind of low shrub called burtze, which is found in good quantity at most of the stages.
Above Zingzingbar the road again crosses the stream and ascends the Baralacha Pass (16,200 feet), passes the beautiful Surajtal Lake, and reaching the top descends the ravine of the Yunan stream, passes the Yunantso Lake and crossing a large moraine, drops to Keylong (12 miles). There it crosses the Yunan stream forming the headwaters of the Lingti river and runs on to the Lingti Plain (14 miles).
Here the pony men usually prefer to rest for a day so as to give their animals a good feed, before the heavy ascent to the Lacha- lung Pass. Lingti Plain is over 14,000 feet above the sea, and in the middle is the Falung-danda, a great rock marking the boundary between British and Kashmir territories. On the next march, the Tsarap river must be forded L early in the day, and some miles on the road turns up a ravine and ascends steeply to Lacha (15 miles). Camp at the final climb to the Lachalung Pass at a height of 16,000 feet.
After crossing the pass (17100 feet) there is a long and gradual descent to Trarnbok (8 miles) in the bed of the - Surnkiyel stream. Camp beneath great overhanging cliffs. r the road then runs down the ravine, crossing and recrossing with an easy gradient to Sumkiyel (10 miles). The two marches from Lacha can be done in one day, and it is best to camp beside the stream. At Sumkivel a fairly steep ascent leads up to the Kiang Chu Maidan, a long and wide sandy plain at 16,000 feet. There are some springs on the plain but the water is impure. After crossing the plain, where the
Kiang or wild ass may often be seen in herds, the road bends to the right along a narrower plain at the same level and reaches Rukchen (15 miles). Here a settlement of Champas or nomads is usually found, and they supply yaks for the journey to Gya.
From Rukchen to Debring (14 miles) at the foot of the Taklung Pass, the road still runs through the same narrow valley over sandy wastes, which may at one time have been the bed of a large lake stretching from the Lachalung to the Taklung Pass. The latter pass, 17,600 feet is easy, and the road then drops to a ravine down which it runs to Gya, (14 miles). This is the first village in Ladakh at 12,000 feet on the bank of the Gya river a tributary of the Indus. Here fresh yaks are procured for the journey to Leh.
The whole of the next march is in the narrow ravine of the Gya stream and the road is chiefly on the left bank, some villages are passed, and tree vegetation again appears though scanty. The stage is at Upshi (14 miles) on the left bank of the Indus. Prom Gya onward there is a serai at each stage and ordinary supplies are procurable.
The road down the Indus valley is good and the march to Martsalung (10 miles) easy. Two miles down, the Hernia monastery should be visited. It is a little off the road in a side ravine, at 11,500 feet. Chushot or Gulabbagh (12 miles) is the next stage, and a few miles on the Indus is crossed by a wooden bridge, followed by a long ascent over a sandy and stony plain to Leh (8 miles), passing a mini wall a mile long.
The next march is over the Kunzum Pass (1.4,931 feet), to Losar in Spiti (14 miles, 13,395 feet). A side. the stream must be crossed early, and the ascent and descent are both easy. The valley of the Spiti river is open, wit,h the confluence of several streams, and a great expanse of the shingle. The road onward is almost level to Losar; a large valley where some supplies are procurable.
From Losar to Kioto is 9 miles (13,000 feet). On this march, the Spiti river has to be forded, but it is an easy road. Loads on these marches should be made up before starting, and payment made at the end of the march for the arranged number, as coolies are sometimes changed on the way.
The next march is from Kioto to Kibber (12 miles, 13,000 feet). The first three miles are easy as far as large nala animals taking a low road. The other road rises three miles to a pass with a large marg on the top and water on the right. The next three miles are down to the streams and very dry; change of coolies at nine miles.
Farther on is a fine and precipitous gorge and the road descends to the bottom and crosses to the other side to Kibar, a large and dirty village with a bad camp. This marks the Inner Line.
From Kibar to Lara (12,500 feet) is 12 miles
Triloknath
The Triloknath temple is in Chamba-Lahul, where a local Rana or Thakur resides. The temple is in the Shikhara style like those at Chamba, but in front of it is an older shrine, in the style of a hill temple, which is Buddhist. It contains an image of Triloknath or Avalo- kiteshvara, artistically carved in white marble, and representing a Bodhisattva figure, seated cross-legged.
It has six arms, three on each side, and stands about three feet high. Facing the temple, and adjoining it, are places for the accommodation of pilgrims to the shrine. The Mela held in August is accompanied by drinking and dancing. No sacrifices are offered at the shrine, and the Puja chiefly consists in keeping lamps always burning before the image, and in reciting passages from the sacred books.
The lights are of wicks fed with ghi, and great numbers of them are arranged in a platter, and then lit. The officiating priest is a lama and the control of the temple is entirely in the hands of the local Ran$, whose residence is close by, and whose ancestors have held their lands from time immemorial. This tirtha is visited by pilgrims from all parts of India and even from Ladakh and Tibet Proper, Hindus, and Buddhists intermingling as if they were of one faith. The pilgrims come either from the Kulu or the Pangi direction, and Hindu sadhus frequently lose their lives in attempting to cross the high snowy passes into the Ravi Valley.
The shrine was originally Hindu and dedicated to Shiva. At Udaipur near Triloknath is the temple of Mirkula Devi which contains some fine Buddhist carvings. Near Triloknath the first signs of Buddhism are seen in the long low walls covered with loose stones, on each of which is inscribed the Buddhist prayer. Om mani padmi hom. These become more numerous, longer, and more elaborate in British Lahul. The walls are called mani, and it is considered an act of great merit to have contributed to their construction. The lettering is usually done by the lamas, who must be well-remunerated for their trouble, and therein lies the merit of the deed.
Pangi to Zanskar
1. Prom Darwas a branch ascends the Sural Nala and crosses the Sarsank Pass (16,200 feet), into the Danlong Nala.2. A similar branch from Kilar runs up the Hunan Nala and crosses the Shinkil Pass (16,300 feet).
3. From Sach, a branch ascends the Saichu Nala to Saichu (10 miles), and Tuan (8 miles) and crosses the Mun La (16,500 feet), and unites with the two roads from Darwas and Kilar the combined road then crosses the Poatla (17,500 feet) to Burdan Gompa in Zanskar.
The roads from Kilar and Tuan are now seldom used. That from Darwas takes five days to Burdan Gompa,. The stages are Kansar, 8 miles , Atyud, 10 miles , Gokhun (over Sarsank Pass) 16 miles. Sangati (Danlong Nala), 6 miles, Punchi (over Poatla) 12 miles; Burdan Gompa, 6 miles. Large glaciers on both passes.
In former times a certain amount of Central Asia,n trade went by these routes while still more passed through Padar and by the Umasi la to Padam in Zanskar. It came from Pathankot and Nurpur and over the Sach and Cheni Passes to Pangi.
4. In the Saichu Na1a, an upper road runs from Kutal near Sach to Shun and rejoins the other road at Hillu, but it is rough and in places dangerous. From Saichu a branch runs up the Chasag Nala to Bhotaur (10 miles) and crosses the Gurdhar Pass (16,791 feet), to Miyar (20 miles) in the Miyar Nala. This pass is so-called owing to its being passable for ponies, which are brought from Lahul by this route to Pangi and over the Sach Pass to Chamba. Two men are needed to render help at difficult parts of the road.
5. At Udaipur s branch runs up the Miyar Nala and is narrow and difficult for four riles. From Chimrat (12 miles) the valley is open and to the road good, up to the head of the valley where it crosses the Kang La, 17,500 feet, in the Western Himalaya to Burdan Gompa. The journey from Kanjer, the last village occupies five days. The stages are Gompa, 8 miles; Kesaryuncha, 7 miles; Dutombn, 8 miles Churiil-pachan, (over Kang La), 12 miles, Bardan Gompa, 6 miles.
6. Beyond Kanjer a branch ascends a side na1a to cross the Tharang La, 17,133 feet, to the head of the Kado Tokpo stream in British Lahu1. The journey from Kanjer to Darcha takes four days, large glacier but road fairly good no village till near Dkrcha.
Chamba to British Lahul. via Kugti Pass.
Bharmour Road.-This the road after leaving Chamba follows the right bank of the Ravi to Rakh 12 miles), crosses the Bagga Bridge, and runs on to Gehra. So far level, the new road ends here, and its alignment returns to the old road, which ascends the slope to Chhatrari (12 miles). The new road commenced in 1878, was to have been carried as far as Bharmour, but was never completed.Beyond Chhatrari the road drops to the Chirchind Nala and rises by a long ascent to Kothi and the Sarali Pass (9,000 feet). It then drops to Ulansa (12 miles), and Gurola, on the left bank of the Ravi and crossing the river rises to Khani, whence it follows the Budhil Valley up to Brahmaur (10 miles). Hursar (10 miles) is the next stage beyond Brahmaur and so far the road is good, but thence to Kugti (12 miles) most of it is rough and narrow. A hill pony can be taken as far as Brahmaur.
From Kugti the road crosses the Kugti Pass to Jobrang in British Lahu1. The distance is 24 miles or 3 marches, and the same coolies go all the way. There is deep snow till June, but in July and August the pass is almost clear and there is no permanent glacier. The pass is very steep near the top on both sides otherwise, the road is good. New snowfalls in September. The following are the stages:- first day from Kukti to the foot of pass (8 miles) second day over the pass 17,001 feet (10 miles) the third day a short march to Jobrang (6 miles). The next stage is to jarma (4 miles) or Lota (8 miles), and the Chandra Bhaga is crossed by a long and difficult jhula near Jobrang.
There are State rest-houses at Rakh, Chhatrari, Ulansa, and Bharmour.
Chhatrari
24 miles from Chamba on the way to Brahmaur, is a tiratha or place of pilgrimage. Its the only object of interest is a temple, containing a brass image of Shakti Devi or Kali, which, as the inscription shows, was erected by Raja Meru Varma (A. D. 700). Gugga the workman who erected the temples at Brahmaur is said to have afterward built a house at Kothi Ranhu for the local Rana, then had his right hand cut off lest he should build as fine a residence for someone else. His hand is, however, believed to have been miraculously restored by the goddess Shakti when he was called upon to build her temple at Chhatrari.Another tradition says that Gugga was accidentally killed by a fall from the roof of the temple porch, after having all but completed his work. The name " Chhatrari " is derived from the words Chhattis (36) and larhi, (three acres), 36 larhis of land having formed the sasan, or grant made to the temple by Raja Bala Bhadra (1589-1641). A mela is held here in September, on the third day after the Durbashtmi mela at the Mani Mahesh lake whence a man bring a lota of water with which the idol is bathed.
Brahamaur
48 miles from Chamba, is interesting as having been the capital of the State for some 400 years till (A. D. 920). The State Kothi is believed to occupy the site of the old palace. The temples are among the oldest archaeological remains in the State. The principal is those of Lakhshana Devi and Ganesa both in the hill style- and those of Mani Mahesha and Narsingh which are in the shikhara style of architecture. A brazen bull of life-size stands in front of the Mani Mahesa temple. Inscriptions on the idols of Lakhshana Devi and Ganesa, and on the pedestal of the bull all date from the reign of Raja Meru Varma (680-700).The level ground on which the temples stand is called the chaurasi. Bharmour is the headquarters of the Wazarat of that name and has a Post Office open for 6 or 7 months in summer. There is a forest rest-house on a beautiful site about a mile from the State Kothi. The country around Brahmaur is regarded as belonging to Shiva, and is sometimes called " Shiv-bhumi ": being the home of the Gaddi tribe it is also called Gaddaran.
Mani Mahesha Lake
One march from Harsar in the Budhil Valley is Mani Mahesh, one of the chief titles or places of in the State. The lake lies on a small plane in the Mani Mahesh Range 13,000 feet above sea level, and at the base of the Kailash peak (18,564 feet). It is of no great size, and on its margin is a small marble image of Shiva, called the Chaumukha. A mela held here every year in Bhadon or Asuj is frequented by pilgrims who come to bathe in the lake from all the surrounding districts, and even from distant parts of India.
Bharmour to Triloknath in Chamba-Lahul via Chobia Pass.
From Bharmour a road crosses to the right bank of the Budhil and runs on to Chobia (8 miles) here coolies must be engaged for the Chobia Pass (16,720 feet) leading to Triloknath. The road over the pass is fairly good as far as the Chobia Nala, but difficult for a short distance in the bed of the stream after the snow bridges have melted then fair to the foot of the pass, steep ascent over glacier near the top, with bad crevices on the northern side in autumn; afterward easy to Triloknath. The crossing is easiest in May and June: three marches; Chobia to Camp, 8 miles; Camp to Camp, lover pass; 10 miles; Camp to 'I'riloltnath, 6 miles.Bharmour to Triloknath via Kali-Cho Pass.
At Bharmour a road descends to cross the Budhil. It then rises to Tatahn (G miles): where it is joined by a branch from Khani, and thence runs up the Tundah valley to Badra (12 miles). From Tatahn the road is a mere hill track and very rough. Coolies for Triloknath via the Kali-Cho Pass (16,402 feet) must be engaged at Badra, and the journey takes three days. Badra to Camp, 8 miles; Camp to Camp, overpass, 10 miles; Ca'mp to Triloknhth, 8 miles.There is a very steep ascent of 4,000 feet on the pass where the road is dangerous from falling stones; the descent is steep near the top then easy to Triloknhth. Camp near the foot of the pass.
Chamba to Tindi in Chamba Lahul Via Darati Pass.
The road on leaving Chamba descends to cross the Saho Nala and ascends its right bank to Chiminu where it turns into the Hul Nala. It is fairly level to Silla Gharat (12 miles). From Silla Gharat it rises steeply to cross the Saho Range at Ranaut, 9,000 feet, and runs on through forest at this elevation for some distance before descending to Bangor (10 miles).On the next march, the steep descent continues to the bed of the stream, which is crossed, and the road ascends and runs on to Lunek (8 miles) in the bed of the Chanju Nala. Coolies for the Darati Pass, 15,000 feet, can be procured through the kardars at Chanju Kothi. A halt is usually made, on the way to the pass, at Kalpra, the last village, where arrangements are completed. There are good encamping grounds near the foot of the pass, where fuel is procurable.
The pass is very steep for 3,000 feet, and a little dangerous near the top. Care should be taken to avoid displacing stones. The crossing is difficult in May and June, but fairly easy from July when the snow has melted. The descent to Tindi is easy and rapid, and the whole distance from Kalpra can be done in two days. This road is fairly good all the way. Ponies and laden animals go as far as Sikh GrBt, where there is a rest-house.
Chamba to Tindi in Chamba Lahul Via Marhu Pass
The road to Tindi via the Marhn Pass goes from Bhangor to Bhagai (10 miles) and Maowa (8 miles), in the Charar Nala. It is long and tedious but easy. From Maowa, where coolies are procured, the road ascends gradually to the camp on a flat near the stream at the foot of the pass.The ascent from there to the pass is long but not steep like the Darati. The descent is over the rock to the camp in the bed of the stream. The third march, his along the mountain slopes to Tindi and is quite easy. There is a good rest-house at Tindi.
Ordinary supplies are procurable ah each stage.
Chamba to Brahmaur via Saho.
Salzo Road-The Saho road also starts from the capital and, after crossing the Sal Nala, runs up its right bank to Saho (8 miles).From Saho it ascends the Keri Nala and crosses the Panjungla Range to Sacraina (12 miles) and over the Bailj Range to Bailj (12 miles) and Kanaiter (6 miles), finally crossing the Tundahen Range by the Bagair Pass to Manda' (16 miles); from there, one branch crosses the Tundahen Nala to Badra (6 miles) and joins the road to the Kali- Cho Pass and another branch runs to Bagra (8 miles) and Bhamour (8 miles). Ponies can go to Saho, where there is a rest-house; beyond this, the road is very long rough. Ordinary supplies are procurable at each stage.
Chamba to Brahmaur via Jamwar.
Jamwar Road -From Chamba also a road rises to Jamwar (6 miles) and runs along the crest of the Jamar ridge to Bara Jamwar. It then descends to Lilh (10 miles) and Guh and follows up the Beljedi Nala by Batot (8 miles) to Girir, (8 miles); finally crossing the Tundah Range by the Jhundal Pass to Manda (12 miles), and on by Bargra to Bharmour (14 miles). Ponies can go as far as Jamwar, and so far the road is good, but onwards it is very rough. There is a State bungalow at Jamwar for which special permission is necessary from His Highness the Raja.Ulansa to Bara Bangahal.
Bara Bangahal Road -From Ulansa the road follows the left bank of the Ravi to Bara Bangahal. The stages are- Chanota, 12 miles; Holi, 12 miles; Garoh, 8 miles; Chanair, 12 miles; Sind, 10 miles; Kanaur, 8 miles, and Bara Banghal 10 miles. This road is fit for pedestrians only, and in many places is rough and dangerous, especially between Chanair and Bangahal. As far as Chanair it is fairly good. It then crosses to the right bank.Roads cross the Dhaula Dhar from the Ravi Valley to Kangra by numerous passes, but the principle is the following:-Bohar Pass, 11,602 feet from Bakan or Rasu to Boh in Rihlu, Baleni Pass, 11,900 feet from Basu or Piyur to Dareni in Rihlu; Indrahar Pass, 14,150 feet, from Kuarsi to Dharmsala; Wahar Pass, 14,101 feet, from Chanair to Palampur; Sarai Pass, 14,082 feet, from Sarai to Baijnath. None of the passes are passable for ponies; two marches.
From Bara Bangahal roads cross the Kalihin Pass in the Bara Bangahal Range, to Kulu the Makori, Gauri, and Thamsar Passes in the Dhaula Dhar to Chhota Bangahal, and the Chobu Pass to Kugti. These Passes are all 16,000 to 17,000 feet and the roads rough.
Chamba to Kashmir wins Kishtwar
Bhaderwah Road-This a road runs down the right bank (of the Ravi to Kiyani and ascending to Pukhri, 8 miles from Chamba, descends to the Kothi bridge over the Siyul Nala and reaches Sundla (13 miles). It then rises to Salooni, on the Prithvi Jor Ridge, and gradually descends to the Pala bridge and runs on to Kihar and. Langera (14 miles). The whole of this road, from Sundla, near the Kothi bridge, to Langera is new.The old road from Sundla follows the right bank of the Siyul to Manjir, rises to Salooni, and descends to cross the Siyul at the Kalor bridge, rejoining the new road at Pala bridge. From Bhandal the old road follows the left bank of the Siyul to Langera (12 miles) and is very rough in places. Thence it ascends the Pidari Pass 10,000 feet and descends rapidly to Thanala in Bhadralvah (16 miles).
The Bhadrawih road is good, with easy gradients as far as Bhandal, and when finished, pack animals will be able to go all the way t,o Langera. Ponies go through to Bhadrawah, but parts of' the road on the Padari Pass are rough and somewhat unsafe for animals. The descent to thanala is very steep.
There are rest-houses at Sundla, Kihar, Bhandal, and Langera. From Tllanala to Bhadrawah the road is very good. There is a comfortable rest-house at Bhaderwah and supplies are easily obtained. The road then ascends to Chinta (4 miles) and the top of the Jaura ridge, along which it runs to Jaura (12 miles). Extensive views are obtained of the Chenab Valley. From Jaura there is a rapid descent to Jangalwiir (8 miles) near the Chenab. The road then runs up the left bank of the Cheniib to Kandani (12 miles) and Kashtwiir (12 miles) and is fairly level and good all the way. The same coolies should be taken from Jangal- war to Kishtwar as they are difficult to obtain at Khndani without previous notice to the TahsildBr of Kashtwar. A new road on this route has now been made from Bhadrawah to Jaura vici Jai, on a low level, avoiding the steep ascent vid Chinta: distance.-Jai 8 miles and Jaurs 8 miles.
Kishtwar to Kashmir.
After leaving the Chaugan the road descends to the Chenab which is crossed by a wire suspension bridge. It then runs up the left bank of the Maru Wardwan river for some miles and after crossing enters the ravine of the Chhtru stream and follows the right bank to near Mogal Maidan. It then crosses to the left bank, passes Mogal Maidan, and runs on to Chatru (16 miles). Beyond Chatru the road continues to ascend through a narrow valley to the foot of the pass at Sinthan (13 miles). There is no village but fuel is abundant. The next stage is over the Sinthan Pass, 12,300 feet to Dusu (14 miles). The ascent is easy and the descent a, after the first mile or two is through the forest and very pleasant marching.From Dusu to Achibal(l6 miles) is an easy march and about halfway the Kashmir plain bursts into view- a most fascinating panorama. From Achibal to Islamabad is 7 miles near which at Khanbal boats are available for the journey down the Jhelum to Srinagar. Ponies and pack animals can go all the way from Kishtwar to Islamabad. No.
Bhaderwah to Kashmir via Braribal Pass
The road descends the left bank of the Bhaderwah Nala to Kilar (12 miles) and on to the Chandra Bhaga which is crossed by a swing bridge to reach Doda (10 miles). From Doda, which is on an open plain, the road ascends the Lidar Nala to Bagwan (7 miles), Gayi (9 miles), and camp (7 miles). It then crosses the Braribal Pass (13,200 feet) and descends to Jagat-khana (13 miles) and Shahabad (10 miles).From Shahabad the road is almost level to Islamabad (16 miles). This road is good all the way, but not passable for ponies, and ordinary supplies are procurable, especially at Doda.
Bhadrawah to Kashmir via Banihal Pass.
The road follows the Bhaderwah Nala to Kilar (12 miles) and then to a point opposite Doda, where it joins the main road from Kishtwar to Jammu. The next stages are Kaleni (12 miles), Asar (12 miles), Batoti (12 miles), and Ramban (12 miles). Here the Chandra Bhaga is crossed by a suspension bridge and the road ascends to Ramos (15 Ales) and Banihal (10 miles) and descends to Verinag (10 miles), and Islamabad (19 miles). The new motor road now runs from Batot.Bhaderwah was formerly the capital of a small Native State embracing the Bhaderwah and Balesa Valleys. It was ruled by a branch of the family that formerly ruled in Basohli and which was, in turn, an offshoot from Kulu. The place was originally a jagir or private estate under Basohli and became independent about the time of Akbar. In the eighteenth century it was subject to Jammu but later came under the control of Chamba and was annexed by that State about 1920.
It was finally ceded to Jammu in 1846-7. The Rajas resided in the town but the palace has now disappeared. One of the later Chiefs built the fort. The territory extended to the Chenab and included the Bhadrawah and Balesa Valleys down to the Chenab.
Chamba to Kashtwar via Balesa
This route follows the Bhaderwah road by Sundla (13 miles) to Salooni here it descends to cross the Siyul at the Kalor bridge and rises to Diyur (8 miles). It then crosses the ridge to the Khangu rest-house (10 miles) and descends to the Barnota Nala and runs on to Makan (10 miles).An alternative route leaves the Pangi road beyond Tisa (33 miles) and crosses the Baira Nala to Sai (6 miles). It then ascends the left bank of the Barnotla Nala to Makan (12 miles) where it joins the previous road. The road then crosses the Barari Pass (12,000 feet) in the Dagani Dhar and descends to Jagaser in Balesa (16 miles); the pass is easy but takes two days. Does the route then descend the Kalguni Nala? through pretty scenery to Neli (10 miles). An alternative road to Neli leaves the Bhaderwah road near Bhandal (28 miles) and ascending the Sanghani Nalk to Gamgul (10 miles) crosses the Dagani Pass (12,852 feet) and descends to Bhanencha (12 miles) joining the previous road near Kot.
The pass is easy. Coolies go all the way from Bhandal. The main road from Neli follows the right bank of Kalgumi Nala and after crossing a ridge depends on' the Delenger or Balesa Nala and rises to Pringle(l0 miles). An alternative route to Pringal follows the Pangi road to Sai (39 miles) and ascends the Mangli Nala to Mangli (10 miles) It then crosses the Mailwar Pass (13,027 feet), in two marches to Manu in Upper Balesa (20 miles); and descends the right bank of the Delenger Nalit to Batoli (10 miles) and Pringal (10 miles).
From Pringal the road then rises to cross the watershed between the Balesa and Bhonjwah Nalas (9,500 feet) and descends steeply through the forest to the latter Nala which crosses and rises to Jawalapur in Bhonjwah (12 miles). From this point, it again rises crosses another ridge (9,500 feet), and descends through dense forest to the Surur Nala, after crossing which it ascends to Surur (12 miles).
It then runs along the mountain slopes, overlooking the Chandra Bhaga at a high level, to Sarteli (10 miles) and Kishtwar (12 miles). From Jawalapur there is an alternative route, which descends the Bhonj wah Nala and joins the lower road from Jangal- war to Kishtwar at the bridge over the Surur Nala. From Jawalapur also a road crosses the high ridge to Gauri in the upper Surur Nala (8 miles) and amends the Nala to Bhanger (10 miles) to cross the Panji Pass (15,000 feet) to Padar (24 miles); this road enters Padar near the hot springs. It is fairly easy, but the pass is steep near the summit. Coolies go all the way from Gauri to Padar, two marches. All ordinary supplies, including fowls and eggs, are procurable in Balesa and Bhonjwah
Kashtwar to Maru Wardwan and Suru.
On leaving the Kishtwar plain the road descends to the Chandra Bhaga, crosses by a wire suspension bridge, and rises steeply to Palmar (12 miles). It then winds around a ridge and runs up the left side of the Maru Wardwan Valley at a high level to Ekhali (10 miles) and Danchin (12 miles).Dachin is an open flat where several streams meet and are very pretty. The road then crosses to the right bank and runs up through forest almost to Hanzal (14 miles). Reaches of the Maru Wardwan, with the scenery generally, are very striking. The next stage after leaving the forest traverses the Maru plain, four miles long and one broad, and the halting-place is at Maru (8 miles). Near this, in a side valley, are some hot springs. Above Maru, the valley is again narrow, but the road is good, and the scenery very beautiful to Inshin (16 miles) which is counted two marches from Maru.
The road crosses to the left bank, a few miles above Maru. No villages on the way. The Wardwan Valley, about half a mile wide, extends from Inshin to Suknes (16 miles), and for most of the way, a road runs on both sides of the river which is spanned by several bridges. At Suknes coolies are engaged for the Bhot Kol and Yadangshan Passes in the Western Himalaya, leading to Suru. The stages via the Bhot Kol Pass are Wompet or Dumbhoi (8 miles), camp in Bhotkol Nala (12 miles), Donera, overpass (14,400 feet), (12 miles), Suru (10 miles). The stages vid the Yadangshan pass is- Wompet or Dumbhoi (8 miles), camp in Moreskhol Nala (10 miles). Siri Marg, overpass (15,000, feet), (10 miles), Suru (15 miles). Yaks and ponies cross both passes, but on the Bhot Kol there is a long glacier with crevices that are dangerous in autumn; the Yadangshan has no glacier and is easy. For full information about these routes see Guide to Kashmir.
Kishtwar
Kishtwar is situated on a large plain 5,000 feet above sea-level and the Chandra Bhaga or Chenab river flows in a deep gorge along the northern and western margins
The town was formerly the capital of a Native State founded about A. D. 1000 by a branch of the same family now ruling in Suket, Mandi, and Keonthal and descended from the ancient rulers of Gour in Bengal. The State included the entire Chenab Valley from the Lidrhri Nala to Ramban, and also the Maru Wardwan Valley. The Rajas resided in the fort. The family was originally Rajput but became Muhammadan in the time of Aurangzeb. The State was overturned in A. D. 1820 by Raja Gulab Singh of Jammu, and annexed to the Sikh Kingdom. Shah Shuja of Kabul found refuge at Kishtwar for two years after escaping from Lahore in 1815. There is nothing special about the place except the Chaugk, a mile north of the town, which is the largest in the hills. The two ziarats or places of pilgrimage for Muhammadans one in the town and the other at the south end of the Chaugan are famous all through the hills.
Chamba to Jammu via Basohli.
The first three stages-Bathri (14 miles), Sandham (12 miles), Basohli (7 miles)-are on the Sandhara road. Basohli may also be reached from Dunera on the Dalhousie road, and the Ravi is crossed by a ferry opposite the town. From Basohli the road runs through a dun or valley in the Siwa- like extending from the Ravi to Dansal near Jammu. The stages are Mandpur (12 miles), Samburta (12 miles). At the last place, there is an old Sikh fort, in ruins. Rajkot (12 miles), formerly called Mankot, was the capital of a petty Native State and has an old fort, the residence of its former Rajas.At the next stage Mansar (10 miles) there is a small lake about a mile long, and at Saroin Sar (10 miles) another lake about half-a-mile long; both of these are places of pilgrimage. The road then passes over some low hills and crosses the Tawi, a little above Jammu (12 miles) This road, though rough in places, is good all the way but is difficult in the rainy season a,s the Ujh river has to be forded between Mandpur and Samburta and the Basanter to the west of Ramkot.
Basohli was the capital!al of a Native State founded about the eighth or ninth century by a cadet of the Kulu family. The original capital was at Balor, ancient Vallapura, referred to in the Rajatarangini some twelve or fourteen miles west of Basohli, where the old palace and fortifications are still to be seen. The State was subjected by the Sikhs and finally annexed to Jammu in 1836. Two small States- Bhadu-Puddoo of the map-and Bhaderwah were offshoots from Balor. The palace of the Rajas at Basohli now in a ruinous condition must have been a fine building in its day.
Jammu to Kashmir via Banihal Pass
This road is newly made for motor traffic. From Jammu, it runs up the Tawi Valley to Udhampur (42 miles). A mile or two further on begins the long climb to the Patnitop, 6,647 feet, passing near Chaneni on the way. The Tawi stream up in which the road ascends is very beautiful and the view from the pass is very striking-showing range upon range of low hills to the south and the Pir Panjal to the north.A descent is then made to Batot where there is also a Dak bungalow in the Chenab Valley, and a further descent to Ramban where the Chenab is crossed by a suspension bridge. Thence begins the long ascent up the valley of the Bichlari stream to Banihal, where there is another dak bungalow near the south end of the tunnel piercing the pass. The tunnel is one furlong in length and 8,989 feet above sea level. Snow lies well into May. From both ends of the tunnel, a magnificent view is obtained of the outer hills towards the south and of the Kashmir Valley towards the north. The descent then begins past Manda and on to Khanbal on the Jhelum near Islamabad, where the boat may be taken to Srinagar or the journey completed by the motor.
From Batot to Khanbal is 96 miles and from Khanbal to Srinagar 33 miles, making the whole distance from Jammu 313 miles. There are dak bungalows at Jammu, Udhampnr, Batot, Banihal, and Khanbal. Chaneni was formerly a Native State under its own Rajas, who ruled it for many years from about A. D. 820 to 1822 when it was annexed to Jammu State. The present Raja lives in his family palace in the town.
Jammu to Kishtwar
Jammu, the capital of Jammu and Kashmir State, is a terminus of the North-Western Railway. The first three stages on this route-Dansal (15 miles), Udhampur (12 miles), and Dramtal (12 miles)-are in the Outer Bills. The road then passes near Chaneni and ascends steeply to the Singpal Pass 6,800 feet, and descends to Batoti (12 miles). It then follows up the left bank of the Chenab at a high level to Asar (16 miles); and Kaleni (15 miles). Descending to cross the Bhaderwah Nala, it runs on to Siwa (12 miles), Bhela (10 miles), and Jangalwar (12 miles). Above Jangalwar it drops to the bank of the river, and at Tantari crosses the Balesa Nala, and a couple of miles further on, the Surur Nala. Some miles on is Sih ghat or the Leopard's Leap, a narrow rocky gorge.At Kandani (12 miles), the next stage, coolies or supplies are difficult to procure, unless notice has been sent to the Tahsildar of KashtwQr. After crossing the Shatli Nal& the road follows up the river ravine, at a low level, and finally ascends to Kashtwar (12 miles). Ponies go all the way and ordinary supplies are procurable. Bhaderwah is reached in two stages from Kaleni.
Pathankot to Bhaderwah via Basohli.
The first stage is Madhapur (10 miles) at the head of the Bari Doab Canal. Here the Ravi is crossed by a ferry, and the next stages are Thain (15 miles) in the low hills andBasohli (Ihniles); height 2,170 feet, once the capital of a Native State, with the palace of the Rajas, now in ruins. The road then ascends gently to Bhund (13 miles) and more steeply on the next stage t.0 cross a ridge, descending to Bani (16 miles). It then runs up the left bank of the Siowa river, crosses a ridge and drops to Raulka or Sarteli (14 miles), and crosses the Chattardhar Pass (10,000 feet), to Basti (1.6 miles) and Bhsdrawah. (6 miles).
This road is in Jammu territory after crossing the Ravi and is fairly good all the way ponies go through to Bhaderwah. Supplies are easily procured.
Pathankot to Kulu.
After leaving the Railway Terminus at Pathankot the road runs on the level to Nurpur (16 miles). crossing the Chakki stream halfway by the Lyall Viaduct. It then winds around the- hill on which stand the ruins of the old Fort of Nurpur and enters the undulating country of the Shivaliks. Farther on is Kotila (13 miles), also with an ancient fort, and at Shahpur (11 miles) the road enters the Kangra Valley.The main road runs on through the valley on the level to Palampur (22 miles). A few miles beyond Shahpur the road t.o Dharmshala (10 miles) and Dadh (10 miles) ascends on the left and rejoins the main road near Palampur (10 miles). From Shahpur a road also runs to Kangra, (1 3 miles), and by Ranita1, Jawalamukhi, Nadaun, Hamirpur, and Bilaspur to Shimla. From Ranital a road goes to via Dehra Gopipur. The main road beyond Palampur runs on to Baijnath (10 miles) mostly through tea gardens all the way. At Baijnath (Vidiyanathpur) the ancient temple should be visited, erected-in A. D. 1204, as shown by the inscriptions on the slabs on the porch. In these inscriptions, the place is called Kiragrhma, and it was the residence and patrimony of a Rana or hill baron whose castle stood on or near the site of the present dak bungalow.
Beyond Baijnath the road enters the dun or narrow valley of Bir Banghal, through which it runs to Dhelu (12 miles). The bungalow is prettily situated on a spur overlooking the valley, and above it is an old hill fort. A few miles farther on is the Guma salt mine, worked by Mandi State, and beyond it, the upper road to Kulu leaves the main road and ascends the mountain slopes to Jhatingri (11 miles). It then descends to cross the Uhl river by a good bridge and rises by a long sweep to Bhadwani (13 miles).
Crossing the Bhubu Pass 9,480 feet it drops through the forest to karaun (10 miles) and follows the right bank of the Sarwari Nala to Sultanpur (8 miles). From Baijnath to the top of the Bhubu Pass, the road is in Mandi territory, and there are good bungalows all the way. This road is closed from December till March when the Bhubu Pass is under the snow, and the route via the Dulachi Pass in the same range must then be followed.
This route runs via Hurla (12 miles) and leaves the Mandi cart road at Drang (I2 miles), two marches on from Dhelu, where also there are salt mines and runs on the level to a ridge where it meets the road from Mandi. It then descends to cross the Uhl river by a suspension bridge and ascends a tributary of the Uhl for fire miles to Kataula (12 miles). Thence a steep ascent for nine miles leads to the summit of the Dulachi Pass (6,760 feet) over bare hill slopes, and then descent by many windings through beautiful forest scenery to Bajaura (18 miles), near the bank of the Beas. Here the old temple at Hat should be visited a full description of which is to be found in the Archeological Survey Report for 1909-10. Bungalows at Hurla ran Katarila and Bajaura. From Bajaura to Sultanpur (9 miles) the road runs on the level up the right bank of the Beas.
Kullu to Simla via Narkanda
Sultanpur to Bajaura (9 miles) the road is level and runs down the right bank of the Beas. At Bhuin the river is spanned by the Duff-Dunbar bridge for the branch road to Manikaran in the Parbati Valley, (3 marches) where there are hot springs. The main road continues to Larji (11 miles) with an easy gradient through rich cultivated fields in Mandi territory and then crosses to the left bank by a suspension bridge. The Beas gorge at Larji is a grand sight and the new motor road from there to Mandi (25 miles), will shortly be completed, linking up Kullu with the plains.At Larji the road leaves the Beas and ascends the pretty Tirthan river at first on the right bank in Saraj tehsil of Kullu and then crosses by a cantilever bridge to the Mandi side, and on to Manglor.
At Manglor there is an old staging bungalow, but with no system of supplier-. Here you cross to the Saraj side veer round to the left and recross at Banjar (12 miles), where there is a fine new bungalow at the junction of the Jibhi and Tirthan streams. Banjar is about a mile farther on, with tehsil, post office, Sarai and school, and also a dispensary. Banjar to Shoja (10 miles) is a steep march up the pretty Jibhi torrent, through forests of deodar, the whole valley being well wooded.
At Shoja there is a good bungalow but very little in the way of a village. The next march from Shoja to Khanag (7 miles) is over the Jalori Pass, 10,650 feet, through the forest part of May. A fine view of the snowy range is obtained from the summit, and snow lies on the pass from November to April. At - Khanag there is a good bungalow on a pleasant site, looking down into the Satluj Valley. From Khanag the road continues to descend the Ani torrent, a very hot march in summer. The scenery is beautiful being all forest glen. At Ani (9 miles) there is a good * [The old line after crossing the Jalori Pass runs by Rot, Chawai and Dalash to the Luhri bridge, and Kotgarh. ]
bungalow, and nearby is the Salvation Army settlement. The road then drops to the Satluj, which is crossed by a suspension bridge and runs on the level to Luhri (11 miles) where there is a comfortable bungalow. From there a steep ascent is made to Narkanda (12 miles) on the Hindustan- Tibet road.
The other marches to Shimla are Matiana (11 miles), Theog (11 miles), Fagu (5 miles), Shimla (12 miles) all on the Hindustan-Tibet road with a dak bungalow at each stage.
Kullu to Shimla via Mandi.
This road is open all year-round, and after the completion of the motor and cart road from Larji to Mandi, it will be almost level all the way. At present, the route crosses the Dulachi Pass from Bajaura to Kataula (18 miles) and Mandi (12 miles). It then runs on the level through the Balh Plain to Suket (14 miles) and Dehar (12 miles) and by the bridge over the Satluj on to Bilaspur and by Namuli and Arki to Shimla. South of Mandi the main cart road from Palampur branches off vid Una to Hoshiarpur. There are rest-houses all the way on both roads.Kullu to Rampur Bushahr.
This route leaves the main Shimla road at Banjar and ascends the valley of the Tirthan to Bathad (12 miles), it then crosses the Bashleo Pass 10,750 feet in the Jalori Range and descends to Sarahan (11 miles), and runs on to Chunagahi (11 miles) and Rampur (9 miles). The Bashleo Pass is very steep and rocky and is closed with snow in winter.Kullu to Leh in Ladakh.
After passing Sultanpur the main road divides, one runs on the level up the right bank of the Beas by Raisin, and Dobi to Katrain (11 miles), and the other crosses to the left bank and ascends to Nagar. Three bridges span the river at or near the places named, each carrying a road to Nagar (11 miles), which stands on the high ground at the foot of the hills opposite Katrain. At Manali (12 miles), the next stage, the road crosses to the left bank and meets that from Nagar which passes through Jagatsukh.From Manali is a short march to Kothi (6 miles). The bungalow is situated picturesquely on a ridge overlooking the valley here very narrow. Above the junction, with the Solang, the road ascends the cliffs where near Kothi the Beas flows for 3,000 yards through a deep chasm, not more than twenty feet wide at the top. The ascent to the Rohtang Pass (13,400 feet), begins at rahla, a few miles on, where there is a rest-house, and the road rises by many windings to the summit from whence an extensive grew of the Chandra Valley in Lahul is obtained. The contrast is striking between the luxuriant vegetation of Kullu and the bare rocks of Lahul.
After descending to Koksar bungalow (13 miles) the Chandra river is crossed by a bridge and the road runs on to Sisu (12 miles) and Gondhla (7 miles); it then falls gradually to the junction of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers at Tandi, crosses the Bhaga and ascends the right bank to Keylong (10 miles). the road is very good all the way from Sultanpur, and there is a bungalow- at each halting
At Keylong all arrangements must be made for the onward journey and ponies are best* for transport,. Tents are necessary as there are no rest-houses beyond Patseo.
The road ascends the right bank of the Bhaga river at a high level, passes Kolang, and reaches the rest-house at Jispa (13 miles). narcha marks the inner line, beyond which no traveler may go without the permission of the Deputy Commissioner of Kangra. The road is level to Darcha (12,000 feet) and then ascends steeply to Patseo (10 miles).
Hare a fair is held yearly in July and August for a month for traders from Ladakh and the plains. Most of the trade is done by barter. There is good rest-house.
The road now crosses the stream and rises by an easy gradient to Zingzingbar (6 miles). The tree vegetation, chiefly pencil cedar, fairly abundant in Lahul, now ceases and for many marches the only fuel available is a kind of low shrub called burtze, which is found in good quantity at most of the stages.
Above Zingzingbar the road again crosses the stream and ascends the Baralacha Pass (16,200 feet), passes the beautiful Surajtal Lake, and reaching the top descends the ravine of the Yunan stream, passes the Yunantso Lake and crossing a large moraine, drops to Keylong (12 miles). There it crosses the Yunan stream forming the headwaters of the Lingti river and runs on to the Lingti Plain (14 miles).
Here the pony men usually prefer to rest for a day so as to give their animals a good feed, before the heavy ascent to the Lacha- lung Pass. Lingti Plain is over 14,000 feet above the sea, and in the middle is the Falung-danda, a great rock marking the boundary between British and Kashmir territories. On the next march, the Tsarap river must be forded L early in the day, and some miles on the road turns up a ravine and ascends steeply to Lacha (15 miles). Camp at the final climb to the Lachalung Pass at a height of 16,000 feet.
After crossing the pass (17100 feet) there is a long and gradual descent to Trarnbok (8 miles) in the bed of the - Surnkiyel stream. Camp beneath great overhanging cliffs. r the road then runs down the ravine, crossing and recrossing with an easy gradient to Sumkiyel (10 miles). The two marches from Lacha can be done in one day, and it is best to camp beside the stream. At Sumkivel a fairly steep ascent leads up to the Kiang Chu Maidan, a long and wide sandy plain at 16,000 feet. There are some springs on the plain but the water is impure. After crossing the plain, where the
Kiang or wild ass may often be seen in herds, the road bends to the right along a narrower plain at the same level and reaches Rukchen (15 miles). Here a settlement of Champas or nomads is usually found, and they supply yaks for the journey to Gya.
From Rukchen to Debring (14 miles) at the foot of the Taklung Pass, the road still runs through the same narrow valley over sandy wastes, which may at one time have been the bed of a large lake stretching from the Lachalung to the Taklung Pass. The latter pass, 17,600 feet is easy, and the road then drops to a ravine down which it runs to Gya, (14 miles). This is the first village in Ladakh at 12,000 feet on the bank of the Gya river a tributary of the Indus. Here fresh yaks are procured for the journey to Leh.
The whole of the next march is in the narrow ravine of the Gya stream and the road is chiefly on the left bank, some villages are passed, and tree vegetation again appears though scanty. The stage is at Upshi (14 miles) on the left bank of the Indus. Prom Gya onward there is a serai at each stage and ordinary supplies are procurable.
The road down the Indus valley is good and the march to Martsalung (10 miles) easy. Two miles down, the Hernia monastery should be visited. It is a little off the road in a side ravine, at 11,500 feet. Chushot or Gulabbagh (12 miles) is the next stage, and a few miles on the Indus is crossed by a wooden bridge, followed by a long ascent over a sandy and stony plain to Leh (8 miles), passing a mini wall a mile long.
Kulu to Spiti and Wangtu.
This road leaves the main Kulu road at JagatSukh and ascends the Raini Valley to Chika (9 miles). On the next stage the Hamta Pass (14,000 feet), is crossed and the road then descends to the left bank of the Chandra river, where it meets the road from Lahul, opposite the site of old Koksar, and runs on to Chatru (9 miles, 11500 feet). From Chatru to Phuti Runi (8 miles, 12,000 feet), the road is easy hut rough. One stream must be forded early, otherwise, a detour of 1) miles is necessary. From Phuti Runi to Karcha is 10 miles, (12,500 feet) of which six miles are severe on coolies. A glacier is crossed on starting and also at four miles the Shigri stream and large Shigri glacier. The road here is very bad, following a tortuous course over a glacier and large moraine and then in the river bed, camp on grass or shingle; only river water.The next march is over the Kunzum Pass (1.4,931 feet), to Losar in Spiti (14 miles, 13,395 feet). A side. the stream must be crossed early, and the ascent and descent are both easy. The valley of the Spiti river is open, wit,h the confluence of several streams, and a great expanse of the shingle. The road onward is almost level to Losar; a large valley where some supplies are procurable.
From Losar to Kioto is 9 miles (13,000 feet). On this march, the Spiti river has to be forded, but it is an easy road. Loads on these marches should be made up before starting, and payment made at the end of the march for the arranged number, as coolies are sometimes changed on the way.
The next march is from Kioto to Kibber (12 miles, 13,000 feet). The first three miles are easy as far as large nala animals taking a low road. The other road rises three miles to a pass with a large marg on the top and water on the right. The next three miles are down to the streams and very dry; change of coolies at nine miles.
Farther on is a fine and precipitous gorge and the road descends to the bottom and crosses to the other side to Kibar, a large and dirty village with a bad camp. This marks the Inner Line.
From Kibar to Lara (12,500 feet) is 12 miles
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